The Camera Bag

One thing that’s a non-negotiable when it comes to your kit bag, is the bag itself! For those looking to capture the urban environments, fit everything you may need on your back and blend in while doing it, we’d recommend checking out the ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover Backpack.

Think Tank Backpacks are well-made and fantastic quality. This line is great for blending in, which is something you really want when you’re in an urban setting, and don’t want to let everyone know that you’re carrying expensive camera gear! It also has plenty of space for a tripod, laptop and water bottle for when you’re on the go, plus with the benefit of being small and able to carry everything you need.

Interested in getting one for yourself? Check out the ThinkTank website here.

The Camera

We recommend something lightweight with fully manual controls like a mirrorless or DLSR camera. Shooting on a camera with fully manual capabilities and the ability to change lenses is going to add more versatility to your photography as you won’t be limited to the automatic settings on your camera or built in focal lengths.

We’ve recently put the Canon mirrorless range to the test, want to know which one’s for you? Click here.

Recommended equipment for Street Photography

Street photography captures candid moments of everyday life in public spaces. It focuses on unposed scenes, often featuring people going about their daily activities in urban environments. This genre requires quick reflexes, keen observation, and the ability to blend into the surroundings.

Want to know more about Street Photography? Check out the course here.

Lens: Start off with a prime lens, either 35mm or 50mm. These lenses offer a natural perspective similar to the human eye, which is perfect for capturing people within their surroundings. They also tend to have wider apertures, allowing for better low-light performance and beautiful background blur (bokeh) to isolate your subjects.

The most common focal length for street photography is 35mm, as it provides a wide enough field of view to capture context while still allowing for intimate shots.

Other lenses to consider include:

Recommended equipment for Architectural Photography

Architectural photography involves capturing the design, aesthetics, and structural elements of buildings and other man-made structures. This genre requires attention to detail, an understanding of perspective and composition, and often involves working with challenging lighting conditions.

Learn more about photographing architecture here.

Lens: Start off with a wide-angle lens (16-35mm or similar). A must-have for architectural photography, this lens allows you to capture the grandeur and scale of buildings and interiors, even in tight spaces.

Also pack:

• A Tripod: It eliminates camera shake, ensuring sharp images, especially when shooting in low-light conditions or using long exposures to capture the movement of clouds or people.

The Best Camera Tripod – Complete Buyers Guide

• Remote shutter release: This handy accessory further minimizes camera shake by allowing you to trigger the shutter without physically touching the camera.

Polarizing filter: This filter reduces reflections and glare on glass surfaces, improving contrast and colour saturation in your architectural photos.

• Neutral density filter (ND filter): An ND filter reduces the amount of light entering the camera, allowing for longer exposures during daylight. This can be used creatively to blur moving elements like clouds or water, adding a sense of dynamism to your architectural compositions.

Learn more about ND filters here.

Recommended equipment for Urban Landscape Photography

Urban landscape photography focuses on capturing the broader view of cities and urban environments. It often includes cityscapes, skylines, and the interplay between natural and man-made elements in urban settings. This genre requires an eye for composition, patience to wait for the right light, and the ability to find unique vantage points.

Learn more about Urban Landscape Photography here.

Lenses: Start off with Wide-angle lens (16-35mm or similar). It captures the vastness and scale of urban landscapes, showcasing the sprawling cityscape in all its glory. You can also try a Telephoto lens (70-200mm or similar). This will allow you to isolate specific elements within the cityscape, such as iconic landmarks or interesting architectural details, and compress perspective for a unique and dynamic look.

Also pack..

• Tripod: To help keep those images sharp for longer exposures.

Add image of a tripod

• As above an ND filter allows for longer exposures during the day, creating ethereal effects like silky smooth water or streaky clouds in your urban landscapes.

• Graduated neutral density filter (GND filter): A GND filter helps balance the exposure between a bright sky and a darker foreground, preventing overexposed skies and underexposed foregrounds, especially during sunrise and sunset.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Recommended equipment for Urban Portrait Photography:

Urban portrait photography focuses on capturing people within the context of the city. Rather than isolating the subject, it emphasizes the relationship between individuals and their urban surroundings. This genre often blends human expression with architectural backdrops, street textures, and the rhythm of city life. It requires an eye for composition, an awareness of light and shadows in dynamic environments, and the ability to frame portraits that highlight both personality and place.

Lenses: A prime lens like 50mm, 85mm, or 105mm are great for portrait photography due to their ability to create a flattering perspective and beautiful background blur (bokeh) that isolates your subject from the busy urban environment. A Zoom lens like a 24-70mm can also be a solid option for urban portraits, as it gives you flexibility in framing and allowing you to adapt to different shooting situations and locations.

Also pack…

• Off-camera flash: An off-camera flash allows you to add creative lighting to your urban portraits, controlling the direction and intensity of the light for dramatic or flattering effects. It’s also great when you’re shooting in a darker environment.

Recommended equipment for Urban Night Photography:

Urban night photography focuses on capturing the city after dark, when artificial light transforms the urban landscape. It often highlights illuminated skylines, glowing streetlights, neon signs, and the interplay between shadows and reflections. This genre requires careful attention to exposure, an understanding of how different light sources shape mood, and patience to find the right timing—whether it’s during blue hour, under glowing street lamps, or in the stillness of midnight. The challenge lies in balancing technical precision with creative vision to reveal the unique character of a city at night.

Learn how to capture the urban night in our Photographing Cities at Night Course.

Lens: Kick off with a fast prime lens with an aperture of f1.8 or wider! These lenses capture more light, enabling you to use lower ISO settings and faster shutter speeds to reduce noise and capture sharper images in low-light conditions. If you’re looking for a wider shot, pack a wide angle (16-35mm or similar) and make sure you use a tripod!

Also pack…

• Tripod: Essential for long exposures! Great for capturing light trails, star trails, and vibrant cityscapes. You can find out all about capturing light trails in our tutorial.

• Remote shutter release: This accessory further minimizes camera shake during long exposures, ensuring sharp and clear images.

Conclusion

Remember, the best gear is the one you have with you and know how to use effectively. Don't hesitate to experiment with different techniques and explore new perspectives to capture the unique essence of urban environments. If you’re looking to see our full list of recommended kit for beginners, click here.

Happy snapping!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog on the Urban Photography Kit List For Beginners, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

In this guide, we’ll explore the fundamentals of natural light photography, how to harness it for different situations, and advanced techniques that will help you take your images to the next level.

What is Natural Light Photography?

Natural light photography refers to the use of light that is naturally available in the environment, as opposed to artificial lighting. The primary source is the sun, but this includes both direct sunlight and indirect light such as reflected or diffused sunlight. Even when you're not shooting in direct sunlight, you're still using natural light if you're relying on ambient daylight.

Natural light photography can produce stunning images that feel organic, warm, and inviting. By learning to work with this light source, you can make the most out of whatever natural lighting conditions you encounter.

The Basics of Natural Light Photography

Before you dive into more advanced techniques, it's essential to understand the key components of natural light and how they affect your photography.

The Direction of Light

The direction from which light is coming plays a key role in how your subject appears in the frame. Understanding the angle of the sun is crucial for getting the best results.

Front Lighting: Light coming directly from behind the photographer, illuminating the subject evenly. This is ideal for evenly lit, detailed shots and tends to create sharp, vibrant photos.

Side Lighting: Light coming from the side of the subject. This creates shadows and texture, making it great for adding depth to portraits or emphasizing shapes and lines in landscape photography.

Backlighting: When light comes from behind the subject, creating silhouettes or glowing edges around your subject. Backlighting can be dramatic and works particularly well when shooting in the early morning or late afternoon light.

Light Intensity

The quality of natural light refers to how hard or soft the light is. This is determined by the size of the light source and whether it’s diffused.

Hard Light: Light that is direct and creates sharp shadows (e.g., midday sun). Hard light can emphasize texture and create a high-contrast, dramatic effect.

Soft Light: Light that is diffused, either by clouds, windows, or reflectors, leading to softer shadows and a more even, flattering illumination (e.g., overcast days). Soft light is often preferred in portraiture as it reduces harsh shadows and evens out skin tones.

The Colour of Light

Natural light changes colour throughout the day and is often warmer in the early morning and late afternoon (known as golden hour) and cooler in the midday. Colour temperature in measured in Kelvin. It's named after the Kelvin scale, which measures absolute temperature.

Lower Kelvin values (2000-4000K) represent warmer, more orange/yellow light.

Higher Kelvin values (5000-9000K) represent cooler, more blue light.

Neutral daylight is around 5500K.

Understanding how this affects your photos will help you shoot in different lighting conditions without needing heavy post-editing.

Warm Light: Occurs at sunrise and sunset, giving a golden, reddish hue that can make photos feel warm and inviting. The colour temperature at sunrise or sunset is around 2000K, which appears as yellow, red, or gold. This warm light is due to the increased scattering of shorter-wavelength sunlight by atmospheric particulates, known as the Tyndall effect.

Neutral Light:  Occurs midday when the sun is at its most vertical – it provides a colour temperature closest to neutral white. The colour temperature reaches about 5500K at noon, which is close to neutral white.

Blue Hour: This occurs twice daily:

1.       Just before sunrise

2.       Shortly after sunset

During these brief periods, the indirect sunlight creates a soft, predominantly blue illumination with a colour temperature that can reach up to 10,000K.

Overcast or Shaded Areas: Even during midday, shaded areas or overcast skies can produce cool light with colour temperatures ranging from 6500K to 10,000K.

Understanding these variations in cool light can help photographers capture different moods and atmospheres in their images, often without the need for extensive post-processing.

How to Use Natural Light for Different Types of Photography

Building on these concepts, let’s explore how to get the best out of natural light in each area of photography.

Portrait Photography with Natural Light

Portrait photography often benefits from soft, diffused light, which creates flattering results for skin tones and minimizes harsh shadows, so using natural light for portraiture works really well.

Golden Hour: The hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset is often considered the best times for portrait photography. During this time, the light is warm and diffused, creating a soft glow around the subject. The lower angle of the sun also results in longer shadows, adding depth and interest to your images.

Overcast Days: When the sky is covered with clouds, the sunlight is diffused, creating a natural softbox effect. This reduces shadows and helps to balance the light on the subject, making it an excellent choice for close-up portraits or when you want a more even, flattering look.

Backlighting: Positioning your subject so that the light comes from behind them can create a dramatic, glowing effect. To avoid underexposure, you can either use a reflector to bounce light onto the subject's face or increase your camera’s exposure.

Best times to harness natural light for Landscape Photography

The direction and colour of natural light are just as important when shooting landscapes, so this is definitely something you should be factoring in when you’re planning a landscape photo shoot.

Golden Hour: Just like with portraits, golden hour light works beautifully for landscapes. The warm light creates rich contrasts and enhances textures, particularly in nature scenes like forests, deserts, or oceans.

Midday Light: While it’s often harsh and not ideal for portraits, midday light can be great for certain types of landscape shots, especially if you want to highlight strong contrasts, bold colours, or clear skies. It’s also when shadows are shortest, which can be useful for capturing details of architectural or outdoor subjects. Example image

Cloudy or Overcast Skies: Cloud cover can help to create a soft, diffused light that reduces harsh shadows and is ideal for shooting in areas with a lot of texture such as woodland.

Landscape Photography Tips for Beginners

Product Photography with Natural Light

When shooting products, you want to make sure the natural light is soft and even to avoid harsh shadows and overexposed highlights. Natural light comes in handy when you’re photographing food or products and aiming for a homemade or cosy feel.

Diffused Light: Position your product near a large window with sheer curtains, or on a light-coloured surface, so the light is softened. This will help minimize harsh reflections and make your product stand out without overpowering glare.

Reflectors: A white or silver reflector can bounce light back onto your subject, filling in shadows and creating a more even light distribution.

Learn more about Product Photography at Home.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Advanced Tips for Natural Light Photography

Looking to take your natural light photography even further? Here’s some useful tips to level up your practice and master using natural light in your photography.

Using Reflectors and Diffusers

Reflectors and diffusers are useful tools when working with natural light. Reflectors bounce light onto your subject, helping to fill in shadows, while diffusers soften harsh light.

Reflectors: You can use a simple white foam board, a mirror, or professional reflectors to bounce light back onto your subject. Gold or silver reflectors can add warm or cool tones or enhance highlights.

Diffusers: If the light is too harsh, a diffuser can soften it and create a more flattering look. You can buy a collapsible diffuser or use household items like sheer white fabric or a white bed sheet.

Shoot in RAW Format

Natural light can sometimes lead to tricky exposures, especially when you’re dealing with backlighting or varying light conditions. Shooting in RAW format allows you to preserve all the data from the image, giving you more flexibility when it comes to post-processing. This is particularly helpful for adjusting exposure, white balance, and recovering details in both highlights and shadows.

Manual Mode & Exposure Settings

Whether you're using a DSLR, mirrorless camera or even a film camera, taking control of your exposure settings is crucial when working with natural light. You have less control over the scene as you’re not setting your own lighting conditions, so you need to know how to adapt your settings to get the shot!

Shutter Speed: To avoid motion blur, use a faster shutter speed, especially when shooting handheld. A good rule of thumb for handheld shots is to set the shutter speed to at least the inverse of your lens’s focal length (e.g., 1/50 sec for a 50mm lens).

Learn about focal lengths and shutter speeds here.

Aperture: For portraits, a wide aperture (e.g., f/1.8 to f/4) will help you create a shallow depth of field and keep the background beautifully blurred. For landscapes, use a smaller aperture ( f/8 to f/16) to keep both foreground and background in sharp focus.

What is aperture in photography? we’ll have it explained in no time!

ISO: Keep your ISO as low as possible to avoid noise. However, if the light is low (such as on an overcast day or at dusk), you may need to raise your ISO to maintain a good exposure.

Want to master the settings on your camera? Check out our Beginner’s photography course.

Conclusion

Natural light is a powerful tool in photography, offering endless possibilities for creating stunning images. By mastering the principles of light direction, intensity, and colour, you can elevate your photography in any setting. Remember, the key is practice and observation. As you continue to shoot, you'll develop an intuitive understanding of how to work with natural light in various conditions.

Don’t forget to share your experiences and photos with our community – we'd love to see how you apply these concepts in your work. Keep learning, keep shooting, and most importantly, enjoy the journey of capturing the world in its natural light.

Happy snapping!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog Natural Light Photography, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

But capturing those light beams naturally is rare. The weather, time of day, time of year, and location all must line up perfectly. You also need misty mornings, low sun, and clear patches in the canopy. So, getting all those things to line up might not be practically possible. Fortunately, Lightroom allows you to recreate those conditions digitally with just a few smart adjustments.

And please note: Post-processing isn’t about faking light; it’s about enhancing the light that was already there. In this tutorial, we’ll show you how to add realistic, natural-looking light beams to your photos using Lightroom’s Masking tools. This technique is quick, effective, and perfect for forest or woodland photography.

For a full tutorial in Masking in Lightroom, click here.

Do what you can in camera first

You don’t need any special gear for this technique, but getting the right photo to begin with will make your results more convincing.

1. A Good Base Image

Start with a well-exposed image that has a clear light source. This is typically the sun peeking through a gap in the trees. This will make your added beams look natural rather than artificial.

When framing your image in the field, think ahead: compose with the light source in mind. In this example, the sunburst was deliberately placed in the top-right corner, setting up a natural direction for the beams to travel through the scene.

2. Shoot in RAW

RAW files preserve the detail and dynamic range you’ll need when adjusting light and shadow in post-production.

3. Adobe Lightroom Classic

You’ll need the Masking tools in Lightroom — specifically the Brush and Luminance Range masks.

Tip: Get it right in-camera. Know where your light is coming from before you shoot, and you’ll have a much better foundation when editing later.

Check out our Forest Photography Course led by landscape expert Jake Lodge, where you’ll learn how to capture magical woodland scenes from the ground up.

Basic Edit in Lightroom

Begin with your base edit. Balance exposure, contrast, and colour before adding any creative effects. You can see the difference between the raw image and the final version — the light beams add atmosphere, but the foundation of the shot remains solid.

Learn Lightroom Properly Here.

Creating the Light Beams

Now for the fun part — let’s create those beams.

1.       Open the Masking Panel: Click the masking icon, then delete any existing masks.

2.       Select the Brush Tool.

3.       Set the following Brush settings:

• Feather: 100

• Flow: 100

• Density: Around 90

Now identify your light source in the image (for example, a gap in the canopy).

4.       Create a small brush > Click once near the light source.

5.       Move down to where you want the beam to hit and enlarge the brush.

6.       Hold Shift and click again — Lightroom will draw a perfect, tapered beam between those two points.

7.       Repeat for additional light beams where natural highlights occur on the forest floor.

Tip: Light beams should enhance, not overpower. Look for areas already catching light and use them as guides.

Masking in Lightroom – Full Tutorial

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Refining the Beams

Once your beams are in place, fine-tune the effect:

8. Lift Exposure and Highlights slightly to make them glow.

9. Adjust the Amount slider to control strength.

You can also gently paint in extra light around bright spots to balance the composition — for example, where sunlight might scatter through mist or branches.

Adding Warmth

Natural sunlight is warm, especially during golden hour.

10. Increase the Temperature slider slightly toward yellow/orange to make the light feel more realistic.

Toggle the mask on and off — you’ll see how those subtle beams completely change the mood of your shot.

Making the Beams Interact with the Scene

To keep things believable, light shouldn’t fall where it logically wouldn’t — such as behind a tree trunk or under dense branches.

11. Make sure you are still selected on your beam mask.

12. Click Subtract > Object.

13. Paint over the tree or branch that should block the beam. Lightroom will automatically detect the object and remove the light beam from that area.

14. For smaller details, choose Subtract > Brush and paint manually to remove light from under branches or shadowed spots.

These refinements make the effect look natural — as if the beams are weaving through the trees, not over them.

Adding a Luminance Range Mask

To add a warmth to the main light source itself (like a warm glow at the top of the frame):

15.       Create a new mask and select Luminance Range.

16.       Use the eyedropper to click on the brightest area of your light source.

17.       Adjust the range slider to narrow it down to the highlights.

18.       Increase Temperature for warmth and Saturation if needed.

This small touch adds richness and realism — making your light source match the tone of your beams.

Extras - The Power of HDR Editing

If you’re shooting into the sun, you’ll often get strong contrasts and dark tree trunks. This is where HDR helps.

By blending three bracketed exposures (one normal, one underexposed, and one overexposed) you can retain detail in both highlights and shadows. Lightroom’s HDR Photo Merge feature makes this simple. With the HDR base, your edited beams will sit naturally within a balanced tonal range.

Conclusion

Still life flower photography is one of the most rewarding ways to develop your eye for detail and composition. It slows you down and encourages you to think about every aspect of the image — from how the petals curve to how light falls across the vase. By experimenting with lighting direction, aperture, and arrangement, you’ll soon start to see how subtle changes can transform a simple setup into something extraordinary.

Whether you’re shooting in a lightbox or by a window, the goal is the same: to create images that feel timeless and intentional. Don’t be afraid to play with textures, try new lighting angles, or edit your shots with a fine-art finish. The more you explore, the more you’ll refine your creative voice.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this tutorial on how to create light beams in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

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Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

What is street photography?

Street photography is a visual diary of our bustling urban landscapes. It offers a glimpse into everyday lives within the bustling streets, squares, and alleyways.

A brief history of street photography

Street photography emerged alongside the advent of portable cameras in the late 19th century. Early practitioners, armed with small and portable equipment, ventured into the streets to document the rapidly changing urban environments. Notable early examples include the works of Eugène Atget, whose haunting images of Parisian streets captured the city's essence in the early 20th century.

The genre became more popular during the mid-20th century, as 35mm cameras made photography more accessible. Famous street photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson, often regarded as the father of modern street photography, embraced the concept of "the decisive moment." Cartier-Bresson's work, along with that of other famous street photographers like Robert Doisneau and Walker Evans, solidified urban photography as a respected and evocative art form.

More contemporary street photographers include Martin Parr and Stephen Shore. Both artists capture the banal ordinary in the every day in a diaristic style. Their images are impactful because of their ability to tell the story of the moment and create something relatable. 

Looking to find out more about street photography? Check out our street photography course here.

Street photography equipment

When it comes to street photography, you can start by using a standard lens. This lens has a focal length of 50mm on a full-frame camera, 31mm on a crop sensor, and 25mm on a Micro 4:3 camera.

For more info on focal lengths on different cameras, click here.

Using this focal length gives you an ‘as your eye sees’ look, which means it gives you the most realistic view of what is actually there.

A prime lens can also be handy when doing street photography as this limitation forces you to be creative. A prime lens certainly does that as it forces you to get close and think about framing things better in a shot. This is because you can't zoom in or out very quickly and have limited options for cropping in when you’re editing.

As Robert Capa said, “If your photos are not good enough, you're not close enough“. Using a prime lens for street photography forces you to get in there and get the shot.

Best camera settings for street photography

As you can imagine there is no one specific camera setting that will suit all street photography but there are settings that will create your style. Try starting with shooting at an aperture of f/8 or above because it gives you a longer depth of field meaning that if you miss the focus point it's not going to matter too much, but if you want a challenge you can shoot at f/2.8 and get a shallower depth of field.

When you shoot at f2.8, you have to get the focus point absolutely correct and it does risk losing the shot if your settings are off – but the overall effect is worth it!

When it comes to the rest of the settings, it depends on the light. If it's a really bright day you can put your camera onto aperture priority (A or AV mode), set it to f2.8, and know that the shutter speed will be quick enough to avoid camera shake and stop things from blurring.

If it's not a bright day (if it's cloudy or you're in a setting where there's not much light) then you can put it onto a fully manual, set the shutter speed to 1/125th of a second (this will avoid camera shake) and put the aperture on f2.8 again. Then put your ISO on auto to pick up the slack.

If the ISO goes high you might get a bit of noise, but when it comes to street photography, it's all about getting the shot. Just get that shot - if there's noise, there's noise. If you've missed the focus point a bit, you've missed the focus point a bit. Just try and get the shot - get the feeling of the place and show the story.

To learn how to use and control your camera settings, click here.

Street Portraits

Another reason to use f2.8 is because it’s great for street portraits. Street portraiture can be one of the most challenging subjects to tackle because not only do you have to get all of your settings right and your style right, but you’ve also got to interact with people.

The only advice I can give when it comes to this is to be yourself, be genuine - go up to people and tell them what you want to do and if they're good for a portrait then that's great, if they're not say thanks and walk away, don't worry about it.

The beauty of being at places like the Edinburgh Fringe Festival is that you have loads of performers. You have loads of people that love being in front of a camera. I think my favourite shot was this one that I took down at the Scottish Parliament of a young girl with a mask on her face.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

How to take great street photography

Tip 1: Consider the background

One of the most common mistakes in street photography is just focusing on the subject and neglecting the background. A distracting background can detract from the main subject of your photo. Before pressing the shutter, always assess the entire frame and ensure that the background complements rather than competes with your subject.

Backgrounds in street photography are important for context and storytelling, providing a setting that enhances the narrative. They ensure visual clarity and contribute to aesthetic appeal, creating a balanced and good-looking street photo.

Practical tips for considering the background:

• Use your depth of field to isolate subjects with a shallow background and experiment with angles and perspectives for complementary backgrounds.

• Look for clean and unobtrusive backgrounds that emphasise your subject.

• Incorporate elements like signs or people in the foreground to add interest and guide the viewer's eye.

• Be patient and wait for the right moment when the background harmonizes with your subject.

• Using creative framing with elements like doorways or windows for a natural frame creates a way to lead into the image and draw focus to your subject.

• Check for distractions in the background, adjusting your composition or waiting for the right moment to minimize them.

Tip 2: Interaction

Street photography often involves a connection between the photographer and the subject, even if it's just a fleeting moment. Don’t just be a passive observer; interact with the people you’re shooting and seek permission if necessary. This way, you’ll capture genuine emotions and expressions.

Human connection in street photography makes your photos more relatable. When you interact with your subject, it becomes a shared moment and far more genuine, adding life to your street photography. This also stresses the importance of respect and consent when making street photos. It’s important to keep in mind ethical and considerate street photography practices. Prioritize the dignity and privacy of individuals and avoid confrontation when you’re shooting.

Practical tips for interaction in street photography:

• Approach people with kindness when taking street photos and introduce yourself as ‘a photographer.’

• Ask for permission, especially when taking close-up pictures, using simple gestures or a quick chat.

• If you keep a friendly and open attitude, you’ll capture real moments between people.

Consider building rapport over time if you’re a frequent visitor to a community and always respect personal boundaries, and if someone declines, move on.

• You can also share your work with subjects as a thank you and to show your appreciation!

• By approaching your subjects with respect, empathy, and a genuine interest in their stories, you can create great street photography that resonates on a deeper level.

Tip 3: Follow composition rules

Want to go over the basics of composition?

Composition can either make it or break it when it comes to creating great street photography. Composition will tell a story, emphasise relationships between subjects, and create dynamics within an image, especially in lively urban environments. Attention to composition helps refine complex scenes into impactful images, giving beauty to the ordinary or mundane.

Simple composition tips in street photography:

• Utilize the Rule of Thirds for balanced placements and guide the viewer's eye with leading lines, adding depth to your scenes.

• Frame your main subject with elements like doorways or people to provide context and immersion in the environment.

• You can enhance your photograph by balancing the foreground and background in busy scenes.

• Look for symmetry or patterns or embrace negative space strategically for a more impactful street photo.

• Experiment with various perspectives and angles to infuse your street photography with compelling compositions.

Experiment with these ideas and you'll develop an intuitive sense of composition in your street photography. Find out more about the rules of composition in photography with our beginner’s course.

Tip 4: Master your camera settings

Mastering your camera settings is crucial in street photography. Fumbling with settings in that ‘blink and you miss it’ situation could mean a poorly exposed image or missing the shot altogether. Practice regularly, experiment with different settings, and become comfortable with your gear to ensure you can capture decisive moments swiftly.

Practical tips to level up your technical skills:

• Get familiar with your camera and its settings!

• Understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO—to expose correctly in every situation.

• Ditch auto mode and switch to a manual mode. This will enable you to have control in rapidly changing street photography conditions.

• Use spot or zone focusing – Learn how to focus properly here.

• Learn to adapt quickly, learning from mistakes after each shoot for continuous improvement.

Improve your technical ability in photography with our beginner’s course.

Tip 5: Making the most of your gear

While having a high-quality camera is beneficial, remember that the best camera is the one you have with you when creating great street photography. Don't let the lack of expensive equipment with all the bells and whistles hinder your creativity. In the beginning, it’s better to focus on developing your skills rather than constantly upgrading your gear.

Why gear shouldn't be the sole focus:

In great street photography, creativity surpasses equipment. While quality gear contributes to better images, the real magic lies in your vision and ability to capture the moment. Iconic street photos can be taken with basic gear, proving that understanding composition, lighting, and storytelling is the focus – photographer Stephen Shore is famous for having taken images from his “All the Meat You Can Eat” series on a Mickey Mouse camera! Basic equipment doesn't limit creativity; it makes you push boundaries by working with what you’ve got.

Looking to find out what kit you need as a beginner? Read our recommendations.

Tip 6: Stay patient

Street photography often requires patience to capture the perfect moment. Resist the urge to rush or force shots. Take your time, sometimes it’s best to stay in one place and wait for life to happen.

Embrace the idea of ‘The Decisive Moment’ and wait patiently for that time when everything in a scene aligns to create a compelling street photograph.

Remember to:

• Spend time observing the scene before lifting the camera. Take notice of the details, notice the interaction and understand the flow of the environment.

• Choose a focal point and try to anticipate potential moments that could unfold.

• Stay present and be ready to capture unexpected moments.

• Consider a prime lens with a fixed focal length. This limitation will make you think deliberately about your compositions and force you to physically move to find the right angles.

• Stay committed to your chosen spot and avoid switching locations too much.

Remember that patience is a skill that develops over time. Learn from each time you go out and you’ll create some great street photography.

Tip 7: Enhance your photos with post-processing

Once you’ve captured the photo, it doesn’t stop there. Post-processing will enhance visual appeal by adjusting contrast, brightness, and colour saturation. You can emphasize the mood of a street scene through techniques like desaturation for a vintage look or increased vibrancy for a lively atmosphere.

Considerations:

• Neglecting this step can limit the potential of your images. Learn basic editing techniques to enhance your photos without overdoing it, maintaining the authenticity of the street scene.

• Learn editing tools in software like Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, understanding adjustments to exposure, contrast, highlights, and shadows.

• Avoid excessive manipulation, keep the authenticity of the scene!

• Develop a consistent post-processing style that complements your street photography vision. You can also create a preset or action to speed up your process!

• Use cropping carefully to enhance composition without compromising image quality.

• Experiment with black-and-white editing, it usually works well to emphasize contrasts and textures.

Learn Photoshop here
Learn Lightroom here

Tip 8: Be confident and respectful

Fear of confrontation can hold street photographers back from capturing powerful moments. While it's essential to respect people's privacy, don't let the fear of being questioned prevent you from pursuing your passion. Develop a respectful and confident approach when shooting in public spaces.

While street photography is generally legal in most countries, it's crucial to adhere to ethical guidelines:

• Respect people's privacy and dignity, and if a person requests not to be photographed, don’t photograph them.

• Avoid capturing images that may be considered harassment or invasion of privacy.

• Always be aware of local laws and regulations, as they can vary, and seek legal advice if you have specific concerns or questions.

Tip 9: Play with light and shadows

Light is everything in photography, and some of the best street photos show this. Experiment with different times of day, shadows, and low light to add depth and mood to your images.

Practical tips for leveraging light and shadow:

• Understand natural light. Do you know about colour temperature, hard and soft light, etc? If not, click here.

• Experiment with different times of day, for varied lighting effects.

• Use shadows to enhance your composition.

• Use reflections on surfaces for dynamic compositions in urban environments.

• Utilize artificial light sources at night for unique effects.

• Create silhouettes against bright backgrounds.

• When editing, selectively enhancing light and shadow will emphasize areas and create specific moods.

Tip 10: Be original

While it's natural to draw inspiration from other photographers, try to avoid copying their style. Develop your unique style and perspective. Capture scenes that resonate with you personally and let your passion and individuality shine through and you’ll create great street photography.

Practical tips to foster originality:

• Experiment with styles to discover your own authentic approach.

• Tell your unique stories through street photography, consider the narratives and emotions you want to convey.

• Focus on personal projects. Delve deeper into specific themes important to you. This will help you develop a distinct body of work.

• Take risks. If you’re in your comfort zone you’re in the wrong place.

• Develop a consistent visual language with recurring themes, compositions, or editing styles.

• Be patient in finding your voice. Understand that it's a gradual process involving exploration, experimentation, and making plenty of mistakes, Cartier Bresson famously once said, “Your first 10,000 photos are your worst.”

Some more examples of street photography

Conclusion:

By avoiding common mistakes and taking on these tips to make great street photography, aspiring street photographers can enhance their skills and create compelling and authentic images that truly capture the streets. Remember, each mistake is an opportunity to learn and grow as a photographer. Embrace the challenges, stay curious, and keep refining your craft to become a better street photographer.

Happy snapping!

Want to learn street photography, check out our course here.

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About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to photograph flowers as fine art still life subjects. Using a simple lightbox setup, you’ll learn how to shape light, balance composition, and create timeless images inspired by the still life paintings of the Old Masters. From setting up your shot to controlling the mood through lighting, this guide will help you turn everyday flowers into beautifully composed pieces of photographic art.

Essential Equipment for Still Life Flower Photography

Still life flower photography doesn’t require a studio full of expensive kit — just a few key tools that help you control light, background, and focus. Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

1. Camera and Lens - Any DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings will do, as long as you can control aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

A standard lens (50mm Full frame or 35mm Crop sensor) is ideal for balanced compositions that include both the flower and the vase. While macro lenses are fantastic for close-up flower photography, a standard lens gives you more breathing space for still life setups.

Tip: Use a tripod and lower your ISO for maximum sharpness. Still life scenes give you the luxury of time — take advantage of it!

Full frame or crop sensor? Camera Sensor Size Comparison – Which one is right for you?

2. Tripod - A sturdy tripod is essential. You’ll be working with careful lighting and fine focus, so camera stability is key — especially for longer exposures or when using timer shots to position light manually.

The Best Camera Tripod – Complete Buyers Guide

3. Light Source - Good lighting is what turns an ordinary setup into something magical. You can use:

• A lightbox (perfect for small arrangements)

• A continuous LED panel

• Or simply natural window light if you prefer a softer, classic look

You can even add a torch or reflector to shape light direction and depth.

Tip: Experiment with where your light comes from — side lighting creates drama, top lighting feels softer and more traditional.

4. Backgrounds and Surfaces - Keep things simple. A piece of neutral-coloured card (grey, beige, or black) works brilliantly as a background.

For your surface, try textured card, wooden boards, or even fabric — anything that complements your subject without distracting from it.

5. Props and Subjects - A few small vases, ceramic jugs, or glass bottles are great for variety. Start with one or two flowers per shot — tulips, roses, and magnolias work beautifully for their shape and form.

Remember, still life photography is all about balance, so spend time arranging your elements before you shoot.

Setting the Scene: Building a Still Life

For this setup, we’re using a lightbox to control both the light and background. Still life photography often features classic objects like flowers, vases, books, and fruit — arranged with care to evoke the look of traditional paintings. The goal is to move from documenting an object to creating an image that feels like art.

Here, a 55mm lens replaces the macro lens usually used for close-up flower shots. This allows you to step back, capturing not just the flower but also the vase and table it rests on. The result is a more balanced, composed image ready for artistic editing later.

Setting Up Your Composition

Start by setting a neutral background, such as grey card. This keeps the setup simple and ensures you can easily add textures in post-production. Then, take time to carefully balance your composition — the relationship between the flower, vase, and negative space matters.

In this setup, a double-headed flower was arranged to form an inverted triangle, a classic compositional shape that gives the image structure and visual strength. Longer stems can look awkward in smaller vases, so trim and adjust until the arrangement feels proportionate.

Tip: Before shooting, sketch or visualise your composition. Thinking about balance and shape will help your still life feel intentional rather than improvised.

If you enjoy arranging objects and working with composition, try our Flat Lay Photography Tutorial

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Mastering the Lighting

Lighting is the defining element of any still life. For this shoot, the lightbox was rotated 90°, so the built-in top light now came from the side — perfect for directional light that gives form and depth.

Here’s the lighting setup:

• Main light: Lightbox panel from the left

• Fill light: An LED panel placed on the opposite side to soften shadows

• Accent light: A torch added from the side during a 10-second exposure for subtle highlights

Settings: 1/125 sec, f/8, ISO 400

After balancing the lighting temperature and reducing the LED’s warmth, the flower appeared naturally illuminated without harsh contrast.

Tip: Don’t rely on just one light source. Experiment with handheld lights, reflectors, or torches to sculpt your subject.

The lighting and setup techniques used here are also perfect for product photography — check out our Product Photography Tutorial for more tips.

Refining the Details

Attention to detail can make or break your still life.

• Hide imperfections

• Trim any dead leaves

• Fine tune the LED light temperature for natural colour balance

Multiple shots were taken at different apertures (f/8–f/11) to ensure sharp focus throughout the frame. These small steps ensure that when you move into editing, you start with the cleanest, most balanced image possible.

Once you’ve captured your still life shots, you can enhance textures and tones using post processing techniques.

Download this Raw file and learn how to create this exact edit in our Flower Photography Course.

Smaller Setup with Overhead Light

Now you have mastered the first setup, it’s time to experiment. The next composition uses a tiny pottery vase with a magnolia flower, this time lit from above instead of the side. This produces a more classic, softly lit feel.

Camera settings for this setup:

• Aperture: f/7–f/10

• Shutter speed: 1/160–1/250 sec

• ISO: 400

The same grey background was used to maintain consistency, with lighting softened for a calm, delicate mood. Even minor distractions — like a small beetle on a petal — were considered and either removed or planned for editing later.

Wrapping Up: Experiment and Refine

Once your still life is set up, don’t stop at one shot. Try different flowers, swap vases, and explore new lighting angles. The beauty of still life photography lies in its flexibility — you control every element of the frame.

When you find a composition that works, experiment with post-processing. Add textures, convert to black and white, or enhance tones for a painterly finish.

Check out our new course Flower Photography Course coming soon

Challenge: Create your own still life flower photo at home. Focus on balance, subtle lighting, and creative editing — and tag us on social media with your results!

Conclusion

Still life flower photography is one of the most rewarding ways to develop your eye for detail and composition. It slows you down and encourages you to think about every aspect of the image — from how the petals curve to how light falls across the vase. By experimenting with lighting direction, aperture, and arrangement, you’ll soon start to see how subtle changes can transform a simple setup into something extraordinary.

Whether you’re shooting in a lightbox or by a window, the goal is the same: to create images that feel timeless and intentional. Don’t be afraid to play with textures, try new lighting angles, or edit your shots with a fine-art finish. The more you explore, the more you’ll refine your creative voice.

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So, what happens when you’re stuck taking photos in the middle of the day with blinding sun and harsh light? Can you still take great photos? Absolutely — if you know a few key techniques.

This guide walks you through how to turn bright sun from a problem into an asset, using a real shoot in London as an example.

Work with What You Have

On this particular shoot, I was in London around 4–5 p.m. in the middle of summer. I couldn’t wait for golden hour. I had to get back to prepare for a training course I was running the next morning. The light I had to work with was harsh and the sun was high so it wasn’t perfect, but it was workable.

The trick: use the conditions creatively rather than fighting them. It’s a mindset shift every photographer should practice. When you can’t control the light, control how you respond to it.

Want to learn how to control every aspect of your photography properly? Click here to check out our beginner’s photography course

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Tip 1 - Use a 10-Stop ND Filter

One of the simplest and most effective tools for handling bright, midday sun is a 10-stop neutral density (ND) filter. A 10-stop neutral density filter works like sunglasses for your camera. It cuts down the light entering your camera so you can use longer exposure times to:

• blur moving clouds.

• Smooth out water for a sleek, glass-like effect.

Even in bright sun, combining a small aperture (f/16), low ISO (50), and the 10-stop filter gave me 30-second exposures. This added atmosphere and interest that you simply can’t get from a straight snapshot.

Learn more about ND Filters here: ND Filters – In Depth Guide For Beginners

The beauty of this technique is that it gives interest to the picture. You are not used to seeing streaking clouds in the sky or water looking smooth as glass. Those features stand out in an image and draw attention from the viewer.

If you want to learn about Long Exposure Photography in depth, click here.

Tip 2 - Think in Black & White

When the midday sun is blazing, colours can quickly become your enemy. Strong light has a way of washing out subtle tones, oversaturating certain hues, and casting unwanted colour tints into your scene.

This is exactly where black and white photography becomes your best friend. By stripping away colour completely, you’re no longer battling white balance or washed-out skies. Instead, you can focus on what midday light does give you in abundance: contrast, shape, and texture.

In black and white:

• Harsh shadows become a design element, shadows start carving dramatic lines across the frame.

• Bright highlights pop with intensity, giving the image a sense of sharpness and clarity.

• Textures — whether it’s rippling water, weathered stone, or steel architecture — take on a tactile quality that colour sometimes hides.

The trick is to shoot with black and white in mind from the start. Pay attention to tonal contrast as well as the subject. Ask yourself: where’s my brightest point? Where’s my deepest shadow? Where can I find contrast in this scene? Can I use that to lead the viewer’s eye?

When you stop thinking about the colours you’ve lost and start seeing the shapes you’ve gained, bright midday light goes from frustrating to inspiring.

Master Black and White Photography today

Tip 3 - Composition is King!

Technical tricks like ND filters and black-and-white conversion are powerful, but they can’t save a poorly composed image. Composition is what turns a technically correct photograph into one that grabs the viewer’s attention and holds it.

When shooting in harsh midday light, composition becomes even more important because you can’t rely on soft light or rich colours to carry the mood. You must make the structure of the image do the heavy lifting.

On my London shoot, I focused on a few key compositional strategies:

• Strong diagonals — The Millennium Bridge provided a perfect, sweeping diagonal that sliced through the frame and naturally led the eye toward the Tate Modern in the background.

• Foreground interest — Weathered wooden posts along the riverbank acted as anchors in the scene, giving depth and a sense of place before the eye travelled further into the shot.

• Balanced elements — I aligned the Shard, so it sat neatly beneath the bridge’s arc while the Tate Modern tower played balance to this on the opposite side of the frame. This gave visual stability to an otherwise busy scene.

• Use of shadows — Harsh sunlight created a bold, geometric shadow shape on the Thames. Instead of avoiding the harsh light, I waited for the right moment to capture this shadow and added it as a compositional element.

By being intentional with composition, you take control of how the viewer eye moves through your image. You’re essentially directing their gaze — where to start, where to pause, and where to end.

What is Composition in Photography? Learn more here

Tip 4 - Edit to Enhance

Clearly editing plays a big part in any photography and that is the same here. With pictures like this it’s about putting balance into the exposure of the image and enhancing that contrast you purposely included during your picture taking. I’m doing my edits in Adobe Lightroom Classic but you can adapt these skills into any program.

Here is my workflow for harsh light:

1. Convert to black and white straight away

• The first step is to remove colour distractions and focus purely on tonal values. Harsh sunlight often creates high contrast and strong shadows that work beautifully in monochrome.

• Converting early lets me see where the light and shadow interact, which guides all subsequent adjustments.

2. Start with basic pane adjustments

• Exposure: Slightly adjust to balance the midtones without losing highlights.

• Highlights: Pull down to recover detail in bright areas like reflective surfaces or the sky.

• Shadows: Open them just enough to reveal texture in dark areas, such as under bridges or alleyways.

• Whites & Blacks: Fine-tune the extremes to ensure the image retains depth without clipping.

3. Add an S-curve for punchy contrast

• I apply a subtle S-curve in the Tone Curve panel. This deepens shadows while boosting highlights, giving the image dimension and a sense of three-dimensionality. It’s particularly effective for architectural shots where structural lines need to pop.

Learn more about using curves here.

4. Use the Black & White Mixer panel

• The Black & White Mixer lets you adjust the luminance of individual colours. For instance, increasing the blue channel darkens the sky, creating drama and separating it from the clouds.

• Similarly, adjusting reds or yellows can subtly emphasize or de-emphasize buildings, streets, or water reflections.

5. Apply subtle vignetting

• Adding a soft vignette draws the viewer’s eye toward the centre of the frame.

• I keep it subtle — just enough to focus attention without making the edges feel artificially dark.

6. Mask selectively

• Target specific areas using, linear, radial, brush and object select masks. For example here I brighten the underside of the bridge, increase texture and lightened the tone on building façades.

• Masking allows localized adjustments that help balance the exposure of the scene. Check out our Masking in Lightroom Tutorial here.

Masking can transform a flat shot into something dynamic and balanced.

Master Lightroom with our dedicated course.

Key Takeaways for Photography in Harsh Sun

• Use a 10-stop ND filter for creative motion effects.

• Embrace black and white to work with contrast instead of fighting it.

• Look for shadows, contrast and lines to add visual drama.

• Composition is key — foreground interest, leading lines, and balance are essential.

• Edit with purpose — enhance strengths, mask weaknesses.

Conclusion

Bright midday sun is challenging, but with the right skills, you can produce images worthy of your portfolio.

So next time you’re in the middle of the day with no golden hour in sight — don’t pack up your gear. Use the light, shape your composition, and let your editing polish the rest.

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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about creating great photos in harsh light. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

In this tutorial, we’ll use Photoshop to show you how to fix blown out highlights in just 5 steps. Simple watch the video or follow the instructions below.

Fix blown out highlights in with this Photoshop tutorial video often harsh whites and add a natural, warm tone back into your image.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 1:

Sample the fill colour

Essentially you need to cover the highlights with a colour that is natural to the scene. In our example it is a sunset, but the same techniques apply to skin tones, buildings or any highlights that are blown out in your photograph.

Sample a colour from the sunset:

• Select the Brush Tool (B on your keyboard).

• Hold down the Alt key (Option on Mac) to temporarily activate the Eyedropper Tool.

• Whilst holding the Alt/Option key, hover over a warm part of the sunset and click to sample a colour. This will now become your foreground colour.

This step ensures that any colour you apply later matches the light source perfectly.

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Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 2:

Add a Solid Colour Adjustment Layer

• In the Layers Panel, click the Adjustment Layer icon (circled red), and choose ‘Solid colour’.

• Since you already sampled the sun’s colour, it should pre-fill the layer with that colour. Click OK.

• Your image will now be covered completely with this colour. Don’t panic — this is supposed to happen!

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 3:

Reduce opacity of the colour fill layer

• In the Layers Panel, reduce the opacity of your solid colour layer to around 15% to 20%.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 4:

Change the Blend Mode of the colour fill layer

This is where the magic happens:

• With your colour fill layer still selected, change its Blend Mode from Normal to:

• Darken – to gently tint only the brighter areas.

• Multiply – for a stronger, richer effect.

Toggle between these to see which one works best for your photo.

Fix blown out highlights in Photoshop – Step 5:

Adjust and refine to suit

This is the time to perfect the effect.

Adjust the opacity of the colour fill layer to suit.

Change the blend modes to suit – Darken, Multiply and Soft Light tend to work well in cover blown out highlights in a subtle way.

Use the mask of the colour fill layer to mask the effect off areas you don’t want it to affect.

Learn more about layer masking here.

Before & After

Using this quick technique creates a natural glow and brings back detail without needing advanced techniques or heavy retouching.

Conclusion

Blown-out highlights don’t have to ruin your photography. With this simple Photoshop technique you can quickly bring warmth and balance back into your image.

It’s a fast, non-destructive workflow that works for landscapes, portraits, and any photo where the highlights feel too harsh. Next time you’re editing a blown-out picture, give this method a try—you’ll be amazed at how much more natural and professional your photo will look.

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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about how to fix blown out highlights in photoshop. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Have you ever looked at a movie still or a beautiful photo and thought, “I wish my photos could look like that?” Well, you're not alone! Cinematic photography is all about capturing mood, atmosphere, and drama. It's what makes certain photos stand out and instantly grab your attention. And the best part? You don't need expensive equipment or advanced skills to start creating cinematic shots.

In this post, we’ll walk you through the basics of cinematic photography and show you how to use free Lightroom presets to make your photos pop with cinematic flair.

What is Cinematic Photography?

Cinematic photography draws inspiration from films, and its signature style is all about mood, lighting, and composition. The key elements that give photos a cinematic look include:

Lighting: Think soft, diffused light, dramatic shadows, and plenty of contrast. It's all about creating depth and atmosphere.

Colour Grading: Cinematic photos often feature muted tones, enhanced contrasts, and unique colour schemes like the popular "teal and orange" look.

Composition: Wide shots with leading lines, rule of thirds, and scenes that tell a story—just like a movie scene.

When done right, cinematic photography can turn an ordinary shot into something that feels like a scene from a movie. And the good news? You can start creating cinematic images right from your phone or camera with one click!

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

How Lightroom Presets Help You Achieve a Cinematic Look

Now, let's talk about Lightroom presets. If you're new to photography or just starting to edit your photos, Lightroom presets are your best friend. These are pre-made editing settings that can instantly give your photo a polished, professional look with just one click.

Why should beginners use Lightroom presets?

Consistency: Apply the same look to multiple photos with ease.

Efficiency: Saves time by automating colour grading and adjustments.

Learning tool: By seeing how different settings are applied, you can learn about photography editing techniques and develop your own style.

And the best part? We’re sharing a set of free cinematic Lightroom presets with you today! These presets will help you easily add cinematic tones and effects to your photos, so you can start creating those dramatic, film-like shots right away.

Want to master Lightroom? Check out the full course here.

Cinematic Lighting Tips for Beginners

Cinematic lighting is a huge part of what makes a photo feel like it’s straight out of a film. Here are some tips to help you master lighting for cinematic shots:

Shoot during the golden hour: The light just after sunrise or before sunset creates soft, warm tones that are perfect for cinematic photos.

Play with shadows and highlights: Don’t be afraid of shadows! Cinematic photos often have areas of deep darkness contrasted with bright, well-lit spots.

Use artificial light: Streetlights, lamps, or even fairy lights can create a moody atmosphere in your photos. Experiment with different light sources to find what works best.

Real-Life Example: Before and After

Let’s take a look at how the cinematic Lightroom preset can transform an image.

Before: A simple photo taken in an area with natural light, it’s bright, but it lacks drama.

After: Applying the preset adds a subtle orange tone, increases the contrast, and creates a more dramatic, filmic look. The shadows are deeper, and the overall feel of the image is much more cinematic. There’s also a little grain that gives the feel of 35mm cinema.

You can see the transformation instantly, and that’s the magic of Lightroom presets!

Bonus Tips for Cinematic Photography

Here are a few bonus tips to elevate your photos even more:

Play with depth of field: A wide aperture (low f-stop) can give your photos a dreamy, blurred background, making your subject stand out more.

Experiment with colour contrasts: Try the popular teal and orange look or play with complementary colour schemes to evoke different emotions.

Tell a story: Every cinematic photo tells a story. Whether it’s a quiet moment or a bold, dramatic scene, think about what emotion you want to convey through your images.

Conclusion

With just a few simple techniques, you can take your photos from ordinary to cinematic! And with the free Lightroom presets we’ve shared, you can quickly apply those professional editing looks without having to be a photo editing expert. Download the presets, experiment with your images, and have fun creating your own cinematic shots.

Don’t forget to share your photos with us! Tag us on social media to show off your new cinematic creations. We can’t wait to see what you come up with.

Happy shooting!

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I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best camera bag for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Why Every Photographer Needs Their Own Website

As a photographer, you might wonder, “Do I really need my own website? Can’t I just use Instagram or Facebook?” Social media is great for getting your work out there, but having your own website gives you a level of professionalism, control, and flexibility that no social platform can match. Here’s why:

Total Creative Control

On your own website, you decide exactly how your work is displayed. No weird cropping, no distracting ads, and no algorithm deciding who sees your photos. You can build a portfolio that truly reflects your unique style and vision.

Professional Credibility

A website instantly boosts your credibility. It shows clients and collaborators that you take your craft seriously. It’s your digital business card—one that’s always available and easy to share. This is particularly poignant for those that intend to use their website as their digital portfolio – it’s a quick and convenient way to show off the work you’re most proud of!

Client Convenience

If you’re setting up your website to capture more photography clients, with a website, clients can easily browse your galleries, learn about your services, book sessions, and even purchase prints—all in one place. Features like client proofing and password-protected galleries make the whole process smooth and professional.

SEO and Discoverability

Having your own site means you can show up in Google searches, which is huge for attracting new clients. SEO, or Search Engine Optimisation, is how you can get your website to appear higher up in the search results. When using your website to its full potential, you’ll be able to optimise it to appear in the searches that are most likely to get your work seen by prospective clientele – search is still the most likely place people who want to buy a service or product will be looking. Unlike social media, where your posts get buried after a day or two, your website is always working for you.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Best Website Builder For Photographers – Deep Dive Analysis

There are lots of different ways to create your website, but if you’re not familiar with website creation, we’d suggest using a website builder to create your first one. These builders don’t tend to involve any specific skills like coding, and often let you integrate complex features like client galleries and online stores easily and will also have site templates for you start with when designing.

Let’s dive into the best website builders for photographers and find the perfect fit for your creative journey! We’re going to be looking at the following website builders and comparing them in terms of price, user experience, how beginner-friendly they are and what features they have that you’ll actually use as a photographer.

Squarespace: For Stunning Visuals

Pricing: From £12 monthly

Squarespace is known for its gorgeous, minimalist templates that make your photos the star of the show. It’s a favourite for commercial and fine art photographers who want a clean, professional look. Squarespace also offers solid e-commerce features, blogging tools, and appointment scheduling. When designing each page, you’re able to quickly switch to mobile view, so you know what your website visitors are going to see, no matter the device they use. Plus, now with the 7.1 fluidity engine, you have more freedom than ever with the look of your Squarespace website.

Pros:

·       Beautiful, modern templates optimised for imagery

·       Easy-to-use interface and quick setup

·       Great for selling prints or services online

·       Mobile-responsive designs

Cons:

·       Less customisation than Wix

·       Slightly higher price point

·       No free plan (but a free trial is available)

The School of Photography members can get 10% off Squarespace.

Wix: The All-Rounder

Pricing: From £9 monthly

Wix is a favourite among photographers for its flexibility, massive template library, and robust feature set. With over 800 templates—many designed specifically for photographers—you can create a site that truly reflects your style. Its drag-and-drop editor is super intuitive, giving you full control over your layout. Wix also offers built-in galleries, client proofing, printing, and even appointment booking for session scheduling.

Pros:

•            Huge selection of photography-focused templates

•            Drag-and-drop editing with lots of creative freedom

•            Client proofing and private albums

•            Built-in e-commerce and booking tools

•            Free plan available (with ads and Wix branding)

Cons:

•            Free/lower-tier plans have ads and Wix branding

•            The sheer volume of options can be overwhelming for beginners

•            Not the fastest platform if you upload lots of high-res images

Format: Built for Photographers

Pricing: From $12 monthly

Format is designed specifically for photographers and creatives. It offers sleek, minimalist templates, client proofing, and high-res image hosting. If you want a platform that “just works” for photography portfolios and client galleries, Format is a strong contender.

Pros:

·       Tailored features for photographers (client proofing, print sales)

·       Simple, clean templates

·       Easy setup and management

·       Affordable pricing, with a free trial

Cons:

·       Limited third-party integrations

• Fewer customisation options than Wix or Squarespace

Pixpa: All-in-One for Creatives

Pricing: From £6.05 monthly

Pixpa is another platform built with photographers in mind. It combines portfolio creation, e-commerce, and client proofing in one place. It’s affordable, easy to use, and offers enough customisation for most needs.

Pros:

·       Designed for photographers and artists

·       Integrated client proofing and e-commerce

·       Affordable pricing

·       Fast setup

Cons:

·       Less flexibility than Wix or WordPress

·       Smaller template library

The School of Photography members can also get 25% off their first year Pixpa subscription.

Client galleries

If you’re setting up your website with the intention of having client galleries, the next website builders would be a good thing for you to consider, as these have this feature built in, enabling your photography clients to buy their printed products directly from the website.

SmugMug & Zenfolio: For Selling and Client Galleries

Pricing:

Smugmug - From $30 monthly

Zenfolio - From £7 monthly

Both SmugMug and Zenfolio are tailored for photographers looking to sell prints, offer client galleries, and manage proofing. They’re especially popular with event and wedding photographers who need password-protected galleries and unlimited storage.

Pros:

·       Unlimited photo storage

·       Great for selling prints and digital downloads

·       Client gallery and proofing tools

Cons:

·       Less design flexibility than Wix or Squarespace

·       Templates can feel dated

·       More focused on business than creative control

The School of Photography members can also get 15% Smugmug website plans.

SITE123 & Webador: Simple and Fast

Pricing:

SITE123 - Free or $12.80 per month

Webador - Free or from £4.50 per month

If you just want to get something online quickly with minimal fuss, SITE123 and Webador are good options. They’re easy to use but don’t offer the same level of creative freedom or advanced features as the bigger platforms.

Pros:

·       Very easy to set up

·       Basic gallery and e-commerce features

·       Affordable

Cons:

·       Limited customisation

·       Not ideal for complex or highly branded sites

Quick Comparison Table

Conclusion

If you want maximum creative freedom and lots of features, Wix is hard to beat. For a visually stunning, easy-to-manage site, Squarespace is a top pick. If photography-specific tools like client proofing and high-res galleries are your priority, Format or Pixpa are worth a look. For selling prints and managing client galleries, SmugMug and Zenfolio are strong choices.

Whatever you choose, remember: your website is your digital storefront. Pick a builder that fits your workflow, showcases your work beautifully, and helps you grow your photography business.

NB: Above are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about portrait retouching in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

NB: Below there are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

Portrait retouching in lightroom tutorial video demonstrating how to do face retouching in adobe lightroom for beginners.

Retouching portraits in Lightroom

Although not a common practice, it is possible to retouch faces in Lightroom and utilise its AI features to expedite your workflow.

It is not as controlled as using Photoshop, and you will need a picture of someone with relatively good skin, but Lightroom does have a place in retouching, which we will explore in this lesson.

You can easily follow along with this tutorial using your own portraits via the instructions below or by downloading the in depth worksheets via the form above.

Portrait Photography Tips – Settings, Composition, Colour & Lighting

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 1 – Crop and Spot

In the Develop module, you’ll be able to crop, adjust and remove spots and blemishes from your image using the Basic Panel.

1.       Import the image into Lightroom.

2.       Crop to suit.

3.       Use the Remove Tool in Heal Mode to remove spots and blemishes. 

4.       Make adjustments such as white balance in the Basic Panel to suit.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 2 – Masking

Use People Masking to create a mask of the entire person, and create general adjustments to lift shadows and darken highlights.

1.       Open the Masking Panel.

2.       Select People > Person 1 > Tick ‘Entire Person’ > Click ‘Create Mask’.

3.       Rename mask ‘Entire Person’.

4. Adjust the mask parameters to suit your image.

Masking in Lightroom - This is AMAZING!!

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 3 – Eyes & Teeth

Add a mask to the eyes and teeth and refine these details.

1.       In the Masking Panel, Select People > Person 1 > Tick ‘Eye Sclera’ and ‘Iris and Pupil’ > Click ‘Create Mask’.

2.       Rename mask to ‘Eyes’.

3.       Adjust mask parameters to suit.

4.       Repeat the process for the teeth.

Tip: If you need to add or remove parts from the mask, you can do so by selecting “add to mask” or “subtract from mask” and using the brush tool.

Retouching Portraits in Lightroom Step 4 – Colour Grading

Colour grade the image and make any refinements for a final image.

1.       Select the Colour Grading Panel.

2.       Make colour adjustments to suit.

3.       If needed, refine the image further by adjusting the masks as shown in the video.

Learn what else Lightroom can do for your photography here.

Conclusion

Retouching portraits in Lightroom is quick and easy, especially with Lightroom’s AI features! The only downsides to retouching portraits in Lightroom are that there’s less control than in Photoshop, and you need a portrait of someone with quite good skin to start with. But if you’re looking to edit quickly, face retouching in Lightroom is an easy and simple way to get the job done.

You’ve just mastered making your portraits stand out with Adobe Lightroom, but why stop here? If you’re eager to take your retouching even further, join our Yearly Membership today for exclusive access to our Portrait Retouching Course!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial about portrait retouching in Lightroom. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Core Genres of Photography

There are a few core genres of photography, and then the specialisms and techniques branch from there. As a beginner, here is where you’ll probably want to start in your photography exploration. Learn about the core genres and then specialise from there.

Landscape Photography

This genre of photography focuses on capturing the natural environment and outdoor scenes, often emphasizing the beauty, scale, and mood of the natural world. This type of photography typically shows the drama of landscapes, ranging from wide, sweeping vistas to intimate close-ups of natural details. The goal is often to give a sense of place, evoke emotion, or showcase the awe-inspiring features of the Earth’s landscapes. Common subjects include mountains, forests, deserts, oceans, lakes, and rural or wilderness areas.

Want to become a landscape photography pro? Check out our course with Tom Archer.

Portrait Photography

A genre of photography focused on capturing the likeness, personality, and mood of an individual or group. In layman’s terms, this genre of photography is all about photographing people. The subject of portrait photography is typically the focal point of the image, in order to portray them in a way that reveals something about their character, emotions, or identity. Portraits can be taken in various settings, from studio environments with controlled lighting to natural, environmental settings that reflect the subject’s personality or lifestyle. The composition, lighting, and perspective in portrait photography are carefully considered to highlight the subject's features and convey a specific narrative or emotion.

Want to know how to take stunning portraits? Check out our portrait-based courses – Guide to Studio Lighting Course – Headshot Photography – Fine Art Portraiture

Wildlife Photography

Wildlife photography focuses on capturing images of animals in their natural habitats. This type of photography aims to showcase the behaviour, diversity, and beauty of wildlife, often emphasizing the connection between animals and their environment. Wildlife photographers may work in remote locations to document a wide range of species. The goal of is often to raise awareness of conservation issues, highlight the intricacies of animal behaviour, and capture the spontaneous moments of creatures in the wild. It often requires patience, skill, and knowledge of both the animals being photographed and the environment in which they live.

Master this genre in our Wildlife Photography Course with Andy Rouse.

Street Photography

This is a genre of photography that focuses on capturing candid, spontaneous moments of everyday life in public spaces. It often reflects the human condition, urban environments, and social interactions. It is typically unposed and aims to document real-life scenes in a way that tells a story or offers a snapshot of a specific time and place. Street photographers often focus on the unpredictability of the streets, observing human behaviour and the dynamics of city life. The genre can range from capturing individual moments of solitude or joy to broader social or cultural themes, often with an emphasis on composition, light, and timing. Street photography is known for its emphasis on authenticity and the art of capturing life as it happens.

Learn more in our Street Photography Course with Mr Whisper.

Architectural Photography

A genre of photography that focuses on capturing images of buildings, structures, and interior spaces. The goal is to highlight the design, form and function of architecture. Architectural photographers may shoot both the exterior and interior of buildings, aiming to showcase the structure in its best light—literally and figuratively—while capturing its scale, proportions, and relationship to its surroundings. This type of photography requires a keen understanding of perspective, lighting, and composition to accurately represent the architecture while also creating visually compelling images. It is commonly used in real estate, commercial marketing, architectural portfolios, and design publications.

Learn more about Architectural Photography in our tutorial here.

Macro Photography

Macro photography involves capturing extreme close-up images of small subjects, often revealing intricate details that are not visible to the naked eye. This type of photography typically focuses on objects like insects, flowers, textures, and small everyday items, bringing out their fine details, patterns, and textures. In macro photography, the goal is to showcase the tiny world in a way that emphasizes fine details like the structure of a flower petal, the texture of an insect's wings, or the surface of a leaf. Macro photography often requires specialized equipment, such as macro lenses or extension tubes, to achieve the necessary magnification and depth of field.

Master Macro Photography with Oliver Wright.

Astrophotography

This genre of photography that focuses on capturing images of celestial objects and phenomena, such as stars, planets, the moon, galaxies, nebulae, and other astronomical events. This type of photography often requires long exposure times, specialized equipment (such as telescopes, wide-angle lenses, and tracking mounts), and careful planning to capture the faint light from distant objects in the night sky. Astrophotographers often aim to reveal the beauty and detail of the cosmos, whether it’s the Milky Way stretching across a dark landscape or close-up images of planetary surfaces. The genre of photography also includes capturing time-lapse sequences of celestial movements, such as star trails or the passing of the International Space Station. Astrophotography can be both a scientific pursuit and an artistic endeavour, as it combines technical skill with an appreciation for the vastness and beauty of the universe.

Learn how to photograph the universe in our Astrophotography Course with Ben Bush.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Specialised Genres

Environmental dance photography involves shooting dancers on location outside of the traditional setting of a studio or stage. This kind of dance photography works well to create a dynamic contrast between the dancer’s form and the background. This style generally utilises natural lighting and is about pushing forward a relationship between the dancer and the space – juxtaposing them or harmonising them with their surroundings within the frame. Your settings and kit can vary depending on your location and shooting conditions but try starting off with standard zoom lens, use it's a widest aperture this is generally around as f/4, and a fast shutter speed like 1/250th or above second. Take test pictures and view them on the back of your screen to see if the movement is frozen. If it’s not, then increase your shutter speed to 1/500th, 1/1000th or above.

Food Photography

Food photography is a genre focused on capturing visually appealing images of food, often for commercial purposes like advertisements, cookbooks, and menus. It emphasizes the textures, colours, and details of dishes, with careful attention to lighting, composition, and styling to make the food look as appetizing as possible.

Fashion Photography

Fashion photography centres on the portrayal of clothing and accessories, often featuring models in stylized settings. It typically aims to highlight the design and aesthetics of fashion, and can be used in magazines, advertisements, online catalogues, or runway shows. Fashion photographers often work closely with stylists, makeup artists, and designers to create visually striking and trend-setting images.

Sports Photography

Sports photography captures the action, energy, and emotion of athletic events. It often involves fast-moving subjects, requiring photographers to have quick reflexes, knowledge of the sport, and specialized equipment (such as telephoto lenses) to freeze the action. The goal is to convey the intensity, skill, and drama of the moment, whether it’s an athlete in motion or the reactions of fans.

Travel Photography

Travel photography focuses on capturing the essence of different places, cultures, and people around the world. It includes landscapes, architecture, street scenes, and portraits of locals, aiming to tell a visual story about a destination. This genre often conveys a sense of adventure, exploration, and discovery, and is commonly used in travel magazines, blogs, and tourism marketing.

Learn more about getting started in travel photography here.

Abstract Photography

Abstract photography focuses on shapes, colours, patterns, and textures rather than representing realistic or recognizable subjects. The goal is to create images that evoke emotion, curiosity, or thought through non-literal depictions of the world. This genre often challenges traditional ideas of composition and can be both conceptual and experimental.

Learn more about Abstract Photography in our blog.

Event Photography

Event photography involves capturing moments from various events, such as weddings, parties, corporate gatherings, and concerts. The goal is to document the atmosphere, key moments, and emotions of the event in a way that tells a story, whether it’s the candid interactions of guests or the formal highlights of the event.

Documentary Photography

Documentary photography is a genre that captures real-life events, situations, or social issues in a truthful and unbiased manner. It often seeks to tell a story, raise awareness, or convey a message about a subject or community. Documentary photographers aim to be observers, capturing moments without interference or manipulation.

The British Boot Sale Exhibition -Marc Newton

Aerial Photography

Aerial photography involves capturing images from a high vantage point, typically from an aircraft, drone, or elevated platform. It provides a bird’s-eye view of landscapes, buildings, and events, and is often used for surveying, mapping, real estate, and artistic purposes. Aerial shots offer unique perspectives that are not possible from the ground level.

Photojournalism

Photojournalism is a form of journalism that uses photography to tell news stories. It involves capturing images of current events, conflicts, social issues, and human-interest stories to inform and engage the public. Photojournalists work to document events as they unfold, often focusing on truth, accuracy, and ethical standards. These are the kinds of images you would typically see in newspapers or in news bulletins.

Product Photography

Product photography focuses on showcasing products in the most visually appealing way for commercial purposes, such as in catalogues, advertisements, or online stores. It highlights the product’s features, textures, and details with a clean, clear, and attractive aesthetic. Proper lighting, composition, and often a neutral background are crucial for emphasizing the product itself.

Learn how to do product photography at home!

Glamour Photography

Glamour photography is focused on portraying the subject—often a model—in a stylized, idealized, or seductive way. It emphasizes beauty, sensuality, and elegance, and often includes soft lighting, makeup, and poses that enhance the subject’s features. This genre can overlap with fashion and portrait photography but leans more toward creating a fantasy-like or aspirational image.

Fine Art Photography

Fine art photography is created primarily for artistic expression and aesthetic value rather than commercial or documentary purposes. It is often conceptual, exploring personal vision, emotions, or philosophical themes. Fine art photographers may produce limited-edition prints and exhibit their work in galleries, and their images are intended to be appreciated as art. Often, Fine Art Photographers will push the boundaries of typical genre conventions in order to communicate their message.

Fine art Landscape Course with Trudy Kepke

Fine Art Family Portraits with Sujata Setia

Conceptual Photography

Conceptual photography is a genre where the photographer creates images that convey specific ideas, concepts, or messages. These images are often staged and can be symbolic or abstract in nature. The photographer typically uses props, settings, or visual metaphors to communicate a deeper meaning or narrative beyond the surface of the image.

Conceptual Photography Explained: Examples, Tips and an Idea Generator!

Surreal Photography

Surreal photography explores dreamlike or fantastical imagery, often combining unexpected elements to create visually intriguing or bizarre scenes. This genre is influenced by the surrealist art movement and aims to create a sense of wonder, surprise, or mystery by manipulating reality, often with digital editing or creative in-camera techniques. Surreal photography doesn’t always have to be entirely fantastical in nature, it can simply incorporate the idea of ‘The Uncanny’ and still fit into this genre of photography.

Forest Photography

Forest photography focuses on capturing the beauty, tranquillity, and mystery of forested landscapes. It can include wide shots of dense woodlands, intimate close-ups of plants, trees, or wildlife, and shots that evoke the atmosphere of a forest environment. This genre often uses light, shadows, and natural elements to create a connection to nature.

Start capturing stunning forest photography in our Forest Photography Course

Cinematic photography

Cinematic photography involves creating images that evoke the look, mood, and storytelling qualities of cinema. It often uses dramatic lighting, wide compositions, and a focus on emotion or narrative to create a sense of depth and atmosphere, similar to stills taken from a film. This style is popular in both portraiture and landscape photography where cinematic qualities are desired.

Niche Specialties

It is possible to niche down even further into photography genres. Imagine portrait photography, but instead of just taking people's photos, you specialize in only photographing musicians, or only capturing kids, or only shooting actors. These are photography sub-categories that let photographers become experts in one tiny, specific area. Sometimes these niches even overlap, creating unique combinations.

Underwater Photography

Underwater photography captures images beneath the surface of water, often in oceans, lakes, or pools. It requires specialized equipment such as waterproof cameras, housing, and lighting to overcome the challenges of low light and visibility underwater. This genre can focus on marine life, landscapes, or underwater portraits.

Pet Photography

Pet photography specializes in capturing images of pets, typically dogs, cats, and other animals. The focus is on showcasing their personality, emotions, and unique characteristics, often in playful or posed settings. Pet photographers work with animals to create memorable portraits and candid moments.

Still Life Photography

Still life photography involves capturing inanimate objects arranged thoughtfully to convey visual harmony, texture, and detail. Common subjects include flowers, food, books, or everyday objects, often styled in a way that highlights their form, light, and texture. This genre emphasizes composition and lighting.

Infrared Photography

Infrared photography captures images using infrared light, which is outside the visible spectrum. This technique creates surreal and dramatic effects, turning greenery into bright white or pink, skies into dark tones, and otherworldly appearances in landscapes or portraits. Special cameras or filters are required for this type of photography.

Long Exposure Photography

Long exposure photography involves using a slow shutter speed to capture a scene over an extended period. It can create dramatic effects, such as smoothing out flowing water, blurring movement, or capturing star trails in the night sky. This technique often requires a tripod to prevent camera shake.

Master Long Exposure Photography in our in depth course.

High-Speed Photography

High-speed photography captures fast-moving subjects or events, often using a very short shutter speed or specialized equipment like flash strobes to freeze motion. It's used to document moments that happen too quickly for the naked eye, such as a water droplet splashing or a balloon popping.

Tilt-Shift Photography

Tilt-shift photography uses special lenses that allow for selective focus, creating a miniature or "toy" effect. It can make real-world scenes, like cityscapes or buildings, appear as if they are miniature models. This technique can also be used for controlling depth of field in creative ways.

Urban Exploration Photography

Urban exploration photography (often called ‘UrbEx’) focuses on capturing abandoned or forgotten structures, such as old factories, hospitals, or schools. It explores themes of decay, history, and the passage of time, often in dramatic and atmospheric settings.

Astrophotography (Deep Space)

Deep space astrophotography is the capture of distant celestial objects beyond our solar system, such as galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters. It typically involves long exposures and precise tracking to capture the faint light from objects millions or billions of light years away.

Learn how to capture deep space objects in our Astrophotography Course with Ben Bush.

Stereoscopic Photography

Stereoscopic photography creates a 3D effect by taking two slightly offset images, which can be viewed with special equipment, such as 3D glasses or a stereoscope, to create depth perception. This technique mimics how human eyes perceive depth and is used for 3D visualizations.

Kirlian Photography

Kirlian photography captures the "aura" or energy fields around living beings or objects by photographing them with high-voltage electrical discharge. The resulting images often appear as glowing or haloed outlines. It's more associated with pseudoscience than traditional photography.

Equine Photography

Equine photography focuses on capturing horses, whether for portraits, action shots, or showing off their beauty and grace. This genre is often used in equestrian sports, horse shows, or to document the connection between riders and their horses.

Automotive Photography

Automotive photography specializes in capturing cars and other vehicles in visually striking ways. It focuses on showcasing the design, detail, and motion of the vehicle, often in dynamic environments like race tracks, streets, or scenic backdrops.

Scientific Photography

Scientific photography is used to capture images for research, education, and analysis. This can include anything from microscopic photography of cells to documenting chemical reactions, environmental changes, or medical procedures. Rather than a creative art, the goal with this type of photography is to capture highly detailed, factual images to support scientific study.

Experimental Photography

Experimental photography explores creative, unconventional methods to produce unique or unexpected results. This could involve techniques like light painting, double exposures, or using alternative processes like film manipulation, pinhole cameras, or digital effects.

Underwater Fashion Photography

Underwater fashion photography merges the high-fashion genre with underwater settings. Models wear designer clothes while submerged in water, creating ethereal and surreal images that combine beauty, movement, and fluid dynamics. The genre challenges lighting, composition, and environmental factors

Boudoir Photography

Boudoir photography captures intimate, sensual, or romantic images of subjects, often in a bedroom or private setting. The focus is on showcasing the subject's personality and beauty in a tasteful and empowering way, typically for personal keepsakes or as gifts.

Newborn Photography

Newborn photography specializes in capturing the delicate, innocent moments of a newborn baby, often in the first few weeks of life. The emphasis is on creating soft, gentle images that convey warmth, love, and the beauty of the early days of life.

Learn how to do Newborn Photography at home.

Maternity Photography

Maternity photography focuses on capturing the beauty of pregnancy and the anticipation of a new life. The images often feature expectant mothers and may include intimate or creative poses, celebrating the changes in the body and the connection between mother and child.

Real Estate Photography

Real estate photography aims to showcase properties for sale or rent by highlighting key features of the home or commercial space. The goal is to present the property in the best light, with well-lit, wide-angle shots that emphasize space, design, and features.

Stock Photography

Stock photography involves creating images for licensing, which can be used by businesses, advertisers, or media outlets. These images are typically generic and cover a wide range of topics such as business, travel, lifestyle, and nature, intended to be used in various commercial contexts.

Fine Art Nude Photography

Fine art nude photography is an artistic form that captures the human body in a tasteful, elegant way, often exploring themes of form, light, and beauty. The focus is on the artistic and emotional expression of the nude body.

Landscape Astrophotography

Landscape astrophotography combines the beauty of the night sky with scenic landscapes. It often involves capturing starry skies, the Milky Way, or other celestial objects while incorporating natural features like mountains, lakes, or forests into the foreground.

Astrophotography with Ben Bush.

Bird Photography

Bird photography involves capturing images of birds, typically in the wild. It requires patience and skill to photograph birds in their natural habitats, and often focuses on their behaviour, flight patterns, or unique features. Photographers often use telephoto lenses for detailed shots.

Learn how to capture winged wonders in your own garden in our Wildlife Photography Course with Andy Rouse.

Concert Photography

Concert photography captures live musical performances, focusing on the energy, emotion, and action of the performers and the audience. It requires fast shutter speeds and low-light techniques to capture the dynamic atmosphere of a live show.

Travel Portraiture

Travel portraiture focuses on capturing portraits of people from different cultures and regions while traveling. These portraits often reflect the subject's environment and can provide a powerful sense of place, identity, and local culture.

Learn more about travel photography here.

Black and White Photography

Black and white photography removes colour from images, focusing on the contrasts of light and dark, shapes, textures, and composition. It often enhances mood, drama, and timelessness, and is a classic approach to many photographic genres.

Black and White Photography – Master the Art

Minimalist Photography

Minimalist photography emphasizes simplicity, using a sparse composition with few elements. It highlights negative space, clean lines, and the power of simplicity to evoke emotion or focus attention on a single subject or detail.

Read the full breakdown on Minimalist Photography here.

Lomography

Lomography involves shooting with analogue cameras that often produce distinctive, experimental, and unpredictable results, including high contrast, vignetting, and saturated colours. It embraces a fun, creative approach to photography, often emphasizing spontaneity and imperfection.

Infrared Landscape Photography

Infrared landscape photography uses infrared light to create surreal and dreamlike images of landscapes. Foliage often appears bright white, skies darken, and clouds take on unusual textures, providing a unique, otherworldly view of natural environments.

Documentary Wedding Photography

Documentary wedding photography focuses on capturing authentic, candid moments from a wedding day. Rather than posed portraits, it tells the story of the day as it naturally unfolds, focusing on emotion, interaction, and atmosphere.

Fine Art Wedding Photography

Fine art wedding photography combines traditional wedding photography with an artistic approach, focusing on creative compositions, soft lighting, and stylized shots to create visually stunning and emotionally evocative wedding images.

Environmental Portraiture

Environmental portraiture captures individuals in their natural surroundings or work environments, providing context that adds meaning to the subject. It emphasizes the relationship between the subject and their environment, giving insight into their personality, occupation, or lifestyle.

High-Speed Sports Photography

High-speed sports photography captures fast-moving athletes and action with extremely fast shutter speeds, often freezing split-second moments in dynamic sports like football, basketball, or motorsports.

Urban Night Photography

Urban night photography captures cityscapes and street scenes after dark, often focusing on the interplay of artificial lights, reflections, and the atmosphere of the urban environment at night.

Learn more in our Photographing Cities at Night course.

Headshot Photography

Headshot photography focuses on capturing clear, well-lit portraits of individuals, often used for professional purposes like resumes, actor portfolios, or social media profiles. The emphasis is on the subject's face and expression.

Master headshot photography with Mark McGee

Fine Art Landscape Photography

Fine art landscape photography captures nature in a highly stylized or artistic way, focusing on the beauty, light, and mood of the environment. The aim is to create visually striking images that evoke emotion or convey a deeper connection to the natural world.

Make stunning fine art landscape photography with Trudy Kepke’s course.

Macro flower photography

Macro flower photography involves close-up shots of flowers, focusing on intricate details like petals, textures, and colours. It allows photographers to reveal the beauty of nature that’s often overlooked by the naked eye.

Get some Macro photography ideas here.

Street fashion portraits

Street fashion portraits combine elements of street photography and fashion photography, capturing models in urban environments. The emphasis is on spontaneous, stylish images that showcase trends and personal expression in real-world settings.

Editorial photography

Editorial photography is used in magazines, newspapers, and other publications to illustrate articles or stories. It can involve portraits, fashion, lifestyle, or conceptual images that support the theme or message of the accompanying text.

Family Photography

Family photography captures moments of families together, focusing on relationships, emotions, and memories. It can include posed portraits, candid shots, and milestone moments, such as birthdays, holidays, or family reunions.

Learn how to take Fine Art Family Photography with Sujata Setia.

Beauty photography

Beauty photography focuses on highlighting the features of a subject's face, often with an emphasis on makeup, hair, and skin. It’s commonly used in fashion, cosmetics, and skincare advertising, as well as in portraiture.

Self portrait photography

Self-portraiture involves taking photographs of oneself, typically to convey personal expression, identity, or creative vision. It can range from simple selfies to highly stylized, conceptual works that explore the photographer's inner thoughts or personality.

Additional Styles and Techniques

These are the cool tricks and approaches photographers can use across almost any type of photography. Think of them as techniques that can make any photo more interesting - whether you're shooting landscapes, portraits, or street scenes. These are the universal skills that can transform an ordinary photo into something extraordinary, no matter what you're photographing.

High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photography

HDR photography involves capturing multiple exposures of the same scene at different exposure levels and then merging them together to create an image with a greater dynamic range—meaning it captures both the darkest shadows and brightest highlights. This results in a more detailed and balanced image, particularly in scenes with extreme contrasts of light.

Learn how to do HDR in Lightroom.

Panoramic Photography

Panoramic photography captures wide, sweeping views, often extending horizontally to encompass a vast scene. It can be achieved by using specialized panoramic cameras or by stitching multiple images together to create a wide-angle view that represents a broader field of vision than a standard photo.

Learn how to create panoramic shots in Lightroom.

Light Painting

Light painting photography is a creative technique where the photographer uses long exposure times while moving a light source (such as a flashlight, LED wand, or sparklers) in front of the camera. This creates a glowing or streaking light effect in the image, often resulting in abstract or artistic compositions.

Master light painting in our Beginner’s course.

Multiple Exposure Photography

Multiple exposure photography combines two or more exposures into a single image, creating a layered effect. This technique can blend different subjects or scenes into one photograph, often conveying a sense of abstraction, dreaminess, or narrative through visual storytelling.

Blending multiple exposures in Photoshop.

Cyanotype

Cyanotype photography is an alternative photographic process that produces blue-toned prints. The technique involves placing objects or negatives on a light-sensitive surface (usually paper or fabric) and exposing it to UV light. The result is a cyan-blue image with unique textural and tonal qualities.

Pinhole Photography

Pinhole photography is one of the simplest forms of photography, where light enters a camera through a tiny hole (the "pinhole") instead of a lens. The long exposure times and the lack of lens distortion give pinhole photos a soft, dreamlike quality. It can be used to create unique, low-tech images with a vintage or experimental feel.

Smartphone Photography

Smartphone photography refers to taking pictures using a mobile phone camera. With advancements in phone camera technology, smartphones are now capable of producing high-quality images. This genre has become widely popular due to the convenience, portability, and increasingly sophisticated features of modern smartphone cameras.

Here’s some of our smartphone photography tips!

Film Photography

Film photography involves using traditional film to capture images, as opposed to digital sensors. This analogue process requires developing the exposed film in a darkroom or via a lab. Film photography is prized for its grain, colour rendering, and organic look, and is often preferred for artistic or nostalgic purposes.

Digital Photography

Digital photography uses electronic sensors to capture images, storing them on digital memory cards instead of film. Digital photos can be easily edited, shared, and processed with software. It has become the most common form of photography due to its convenience, flexibility, and ability to produce high-resolution images.

Master digital photography in our complete Beginner’s Photography Course.

Conceptual Still Life Photography

Conceptual still-life photography involves carefully arranging inanimate objects to represent abstract ideas, themes, or emotions. The objects, lighting, and composition are selected to convey a deeper message, making this genre a form of visual storytelling or artistic expression.

Panoramic Astrophotography

Panoramic astrophotography combines the principles of panoramic photography with capturing celestial bodies, such as stars, planets, and galaxies. It involves taking multiple wide-angle exposures of the night sky and stitching them together to create a sweeping, detailed image of the cosmos.

Check out our in-depth Astrophotography course.

Light Trail Photography

Light trail photography captures the motion of light sources, such as car headlights or street lights, over a long exposure period. This technique creates streaks of light in the image, often used to convey movement and energy. It's commonly used in urban or night photography.

Light Trail Photography – Settings and Techniques Explained

Smoke Art Photography

Smoke art photography captures the fluid, ephemeral patterns created by smoke. Using long exposures, creative lighting, and careful control of smoke (often from incense or other sources), this technique produces abstract and mesmerizing images of smoke swirling in the air.

Studio Photography

Studio photography takes place in a controlled environment, typically indoors, where lighting, backgrounds, and other elements can be precisely arranged. This genre includes portraiture, product photography, fashion shoots, and other images where the photographer has full control over the setting.

Master the studio in our Studio Lighting Course.

Flash photography

Flash photography uses an artificial light source (a flash) to illuminate a subject, typically in low-light situations or when additional light is needed. Flash photography can freeze motion, fill in shadows, or provide creative effects, and is commonly used in portrait, event, and action photography.

Natural Lighting Photography

Natural lighting photography relies on sunlight or ambient light from the environment to illuminate subjects, rather than artificial lighting. It is often used for outdoor portraits, lifestyle shoots, and scenic photography, as it creates a soft, natural look that can add warmth or mood to the image.

Reflection photography

Reflection photography captures the mirror-like reflection of a subject in water, glass, or other reflective surfaces. This technique adds a layer of depth and symmetry to the image, creating a striking visual effect, especially when combined with elements of the natural world or urban environments.

Instant photography

Instant photography uses specialized cameras (such as Polaroid or Fujifilm Instax) to instantly print a physical photo after it's taken. This genre is nostalgic and focuses on the immediacy of physical prints, often producing retro or vintage-style images with unique characteristics due to the instant printing process.

Iron wool photography

Iron wool photography involves igniting steel wool and spinning it to create light trails and sparks during a long exposure. This technique produces fiery, dynamic images with intricate light patterns and is often used for dramatic and creative effects in night photography.

Check out our iron wool photography tutorial here.

Composite photography

Composite photography involves combining multiple images into a single final image, often through digital manipulation. This technique allows photographers to blend different elements (such as different exposures, scenes, or subjects) to create surreal, conceptual, or fantastical compositions that wouldn't be possible in a single shot.

Learn how to create composites in Photoshop.

Double Exposure photography

Double-exposure photography combines two different exposures into a single image, often blending subjects or scenes in creative and artistic ways. This technique can be achieved through multiple exposures on film or by combining digital layers, producing surreal or conceptual results that tell a deeper story.

Learn more about Double Exposure.

Conclusion

Of course, this is not an entirely exhaustive list. The world of photography is a vast and ever-evolving universe, offering endless opportunities for creative exploration. Embrace the challenge, step outside your comfort zone, and discover the hidden gems that await you in this diverse landscape. Remember, the most important thing is to find what sparks your passion and drives you to create.

Excited to embark on a photographic adventure? Become a TSOP member and we'll equip you with the knowledge and inspiration you need to master your craft.

Happy shooting!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog on dance photography. If you did, please leave us a comment, support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

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What is a camera tripod for?

At its core, a camera tripod is designed to keep your camera still. That’s its primary purpose. The secondary goal is portability. Ideally, your tripod should be lightweight and easy to carry for extended periods. However, don’t fall into the common trap of choosing the lightest tripod possible. If your camera is too heavy for the tripod, it will wobble in the wind. The laws of physics matter here: stability should always come before ultra-lightweight convenience. The size of your kit will largely depend on the sensor size of your camera - read our full breakdown on camera sensor sizes here.

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Camera Tripod Materials: Aluminium vs. Carbon Fibre

Tripods are typically made from either aluminium or carbon fibre. Here are the main differences:

·       Carbon fibre is lighter and just as strong as aluminium, but it comes at a higher price—expect to pay around £100 more for a carbon fibre version.

·       Aluminium is heavier, but it’s a cheaper material to produce. It’s not that much heavier than its carbon fibre counterpart, so if you’re on a budget, aluminium is a perfectly good choice.

Tripod Leg Extensions: Stability vs. Compactness

Camera tripod legs are divided into sections, and the number of sections affects both stability and portability.

·       Fewer sections mean greater stability.

·       More sections mean the tripod packs down smaller, which is great for travel.

Rule of thumb: Avoid camera tripods with more than four leg sections, as the bottom extension will be too thin and unstable. Remember stability is the key priority, not compactness. until my exposure meter reads zero.

Camera Tripod Leg Locking Mechanisms

There are two main types of locking mechanisms for:

·       Clamp-locking system: Easier and quicker to use, but bulkier.

·       Twist-lock mechanism: Slightly more compact, making it ideal for travel, but slower and more awkward to use.

Personally, I prefer twist-locks when I’m on the go as it makes the tripod more compact and suitable to put into your camera bag.

Looking to invest in a camera bag? Learn about camera bags here.

Camera Tripod Quick Release Systems

Most camera tripods come with a quick release system, allowing you to swiftly attach or detach your camera to the tripod. There is a quick release plate which screws onto the bottom of your camera. Any quick release plates will screw onto any camera as they are all made to a standard size. However, any quick release plates will not fit any tripod. If you do need to buy a new plate, make sure it plate matches your tripod’s system. The common plate types are below:

·       ARCA Swiss System: Different brands use this system, so it offers some cross-brand compatibility.

·       Manfrotto: Uses its own system, but replacement plates are easy to find, and their quick release system is very quick to use.

The key is to ensure your chosen tripod includes a quick release plate.

The Best Camera Tripod Height

Manufacturers often advertise the maximum height of a camera tripod with the centre column fully extended. However, this "bonus height" can introduce instability. Focus instead on the stable height of the tripod; this is where the 3 tripod legs meet.

Ideal tripod height: With the tripod head attached, it should reach around your chest height. In some cases, this could mean a heavier tripod. So, if you’re travelling, a shorter, lighter tripod may be more practical, even if it means shooting from a lower angle.

Camera Tripod Heads

Tripods come in two parts: the legs and the head. The head is crucial for how you position and move your camera. There are three main types to choose from, they are:

Ball Head

·       How it works: The camera sits on a ball joint, allowing free movement when loosened.

·       Pros: This tripod head is very quick to adjust and is the most compact.

·       Cons: This tripod head can be less precise for fine composition movements.

Pan and Tilt Head

·       How it works: Separate handles control horizontal (pan) and vertical (tilt) movement.

·       Pros: This tripod head provides greater accuracy when positioning your camera than a ball joint head.

·       Cons: The pan and tilt tripod head is bulkier and heavier than the ball head option.

Gear Head

·       How it works: The gear tripod head is similar to the pan and tilt head, but with geared levers which provide precise, incremental adjustments.

·       Pros: The geared levers on the gear tripod head allow for maximum precision when positioning your camera.

·       Cons: The gear head is a bulky, heavy and expensive option.

The one we’re using as an example is the Manfrotto MHX PRO 3WG, which, at the time of filming, retailed at approximately £179.

Camera Tripod Brands, Models, and Price Points

There are loads of tripod brands out there with just as many options within them all. Here I’m going to talk about the two brands we use here at TSOP. Manfrotto tripods (high-end brand) and K&F Concept (budget option).

Manfrotto 190 Camera Tripod

·       Type: Available in Aluminium and Carbon Fibre.

·       Price: £200 with a pan and tilt head (Aluminium model). The carbon fibre version of this model retails for around £90 more.

This tripod is extremely sturdy and can handle heavy gear with ease, so it’s perfect for those who have a full-frame kit.  

K&F Concept TC2534 Camera Tripod

Type: Budget Carbon Fibre travel tripod

Price: £80

This tripod, now no longer being sold, is a budget model. Unfortunately, when I used it, parts of it broke and had to be replaced, so this is an example of something to be wary of when shopping for more budget tripods.

K&F X284C4 Camera Tripod

Type: Carbon Fibre tripod.

Price: £139 with ball head.

K&F sent us this tripod to test out, and it’s a step up against the previous tripod I tried from them. It’s sturdy and at a nice height, and should be able to hold a full frame kit still. So far so good with this one.

The Best Camera Tripod - Marc’s Recommendations:

Manfrotto 190 - For full frame camera kits:  

This tripod is very sturdy and will keep your kit still. It’s a heavier tripod that will be able to keep still a larger and heavier kit.

You can find it on WEX here.

You can find it on Adorama here.

Manfrotto BeFree - Travel tripod:

This tripod is best if you have a smaller kit like a crop sensor or micro 4:3. It’s a reliable compact tripod for travelling. You’ve also got the option to choose either Aluminium or Carbon Fibre, depending on your budget.

You can find it on WEX here.

You can find it on Adorama here.

K&F X284C4 – Budget Tripod:

A sturdy option and at a cheaper price than the two other tripods, and this could potentially keep a full frame kit still, although I have not put that to the test. This tripod is very good for the price, as it averages around £100 cheaper than the Manfrotto models. A good choice for the photographer on a budget.

You can find it on K&F Concept here.

Conclusion

Choosing the right tripod doesn’t have to be overwhelming. By understanding the key differences in materials, leg designs, locking mechanisms, quick release systems, and tripod heads, you can confidently select a model that matches your camera setup, shooting style, and budget.

Remember, stability should always be your top priority. Consider the tips above and take the time to match your needs. Try to avoid common pitfalls, and invest in a tripod that best fits your photography style, and then that tripod will serve you well for years to come.

Happy shooting!

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I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best tripod for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Exposure bracketing is a photography technique that helps you capture the perfect exposure, especially when the light is tricky. Whether you're a beginner or have experience, learning about exposure bracketing can really improve your photography and in this beginner’s guide, we’re going to go through the A-Z of what, why and how!

What is exposure bracketing?

Let’s begin with the “what?”. Exposure bracketing is taking a series of images, of the same subject at different exposures. E.g. a bright exposure, a medium exposure, and a dark exposure of the scene. In other words, you are creating a bracket of bright and dark exposures around your middle exposure.

Learn how to expose photography correctly here.

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Why would you bracket an exposure of a scene?

Historically, the practice of exposure bracketing comes from the film photography days. There were no digital screens to show you the shot you got! So, you’d take shots of the same scene at a series of different exposures to ensure you ended up with a properly exposed image once you got back to the darkroom, hence a ‘bracketed’ image.

When it comes to digital photography, exposure bracketing is pretty much done for the same reason. You take multiple exposures of the same scene but instead of taking them back to a darkroom, you take them into a digital program like Lightroom and choose the best exposure to process from there.

The difference between exposure bracketing for digital photography is the post-processing options you have available. In programs like Lightroom, you’re able to HDR merge your bracketed exposures or blend the sky into the ground to get a more balanced exposure. With bracketing in digital photography, you’re able to get the maximum details out of all areas of your shot. E.g. you can get the maximum detail out of the shadows, highlights, colours, texture and so on.

In the example video, I’m shooting the dark side of the church on a very bright day. This will give me maximum contrast in a scene – and this is where exposure bracketing can really help you out.

Learn how to HDR merge in Lightroom here.

How to use exposure bracketing

The method to bracket your images is actually really simple. There are two common ways to do it. The first way to bracket is to do so manually.

Technique 1 - Manual exposure bracketing

Firstly, get your composition the way you want, focus the scene and take an exposure reading. With manual exposure bracketing, you want to keep your aperture and ISO fixed for each bracketed image. It’s best if only use the shutter speed changes. You can do it by adjusting the ISO and aperture, but just using the shutter speed as a way of changing your exposure gives the best results. But, the scene will have to be still between each exposure.

To get an exposure reading, focus in on your scene and choose your aperture and ISO for the visual effect you want. This is a landscape shot, so I’m going to put the camera, on F11 to ensure things are sharp and clear from the foreground to the background, and I will set the cameras lowest native ISO to give minimum noise which is ISO 125. Then to get an exposure reading, I change the shutter speed until my exposure meter reads zero.

For this particular scene, we’ve got a shutter speed of 1/60th Second, which puts the meter reading just under zero. Using the 2-second timer to avoid any camera shake when I press the shutter, I’m going to take an exposure of the scene. This will be correctly exposed, as per the camera’s light meter.

For this image, I’m going to take a three-shot, two-stop bracket.

I’m going to take my next shot two stops darker, which is a shutter speed of 1/250th second. Then I take another shot which is two stops brighter, which is a shutter speed to 1/15th second.

What I have here is now three pictures of the same scene, one is a ‘base’ exposure, one two stops brighter and one two stops darker - that is a bracketed shot of the scene.

Learn about stops in photography here.

Technique 2 - Auto exposure bracketing (AEB)

The other way to bracket your images, an even simpler way, and the one I recommend, is Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB). All modern mirrorless or DSLR cameras have this feature. On the Fujifilm camera I’m using, I flick the dial to bracket mode (BKT) and then go into the settings. On this camera it’s under ‘drive settings’ and then “BKT settings”. Go down to “AE BKT” and then ‘Frame/step setting’. Here I’m able to configure how many ‘frames’, i.e. brackets I want, and the stops of light difference between each bracket. For this shot, we’re going to use 3 frames with a difference of 2 stops between them all.

Now you have your preferred settings in your camera, set your Aperture and ISO to what you want for the scene. Then set your shutter speed to “Auto”. Set the 2-second timer again, press the shutter, and the camera does the rest for you.

The camera very quickly takes three separate shots of the scene – the base exposure, the brighter exposure and the darker exposure.

At this point, exposure bracketing may seem complex, but it is actually simple, if you understand what stops of light are. You can find out more about stops of light in our Beginner Photography Course.

Post Processing and exposure bracketing

Here’s the side-by-side comparison of the single shot image and a HDR merge version using the bracketed shots. With software like Lightroom, you’re able to bring out the shadows and rescue some of the highlights with just to edit the single shot, but there will be some degrading. This doesn’t happen anywhere near as much with HDR merged bracketed images.

Basically, the more you push and pull a RAW file, the more degradation you’ll get in those areas in the form of noise and speckles. In a HDR merge, you are not going to get this because it the file has at least 3 times more detail within it.

Learn processing RAW files in Lightroom here.

Things to consider when exposure bracketing

Your scene needs to be still

For bracketing images, you’ll want the scene you’re photographing to be as still as possible. Ideally, subjects like landscapes and buildings. You generally won’t be using this technique to capture portraiture.

Only the shutter speed changes

As I mentioned previously, it’s only the shutter speed that you’ll want to be changing in your bracket. You can do it with Aperture and ISO, but it’s not advised as you want your noise and/or depth of field to be the same in each image.

No image limit in brackets

You can take as many brackets as you like, there are no limits! But something to remember is that the more brackets you merge, the bigger your file will be. Usually it’s a 3-5-7 shot bracket. Most commonly 3 shots at a 2-stop interval will work fine.

Do you need to use exposure bracketing?

Do you actually need to bracket a shot and HDR merge it in this day and age? It’s a really good debate, and with modern, full-frame mirrorless cameras the RAW files that you get are absolutely superb – there’s so much detail in them already!

Take a look at this single shot that I edited. In this particular image the sun was behind me, so the scene in front of me wasn’t that contrasty. Therefore, the raw file needed very little processing for an even and balanced exposure.

Where exposure bracketing is going to help you is firstly, you make sure you have a decent exposure when you get back into Lightroom, and secondly, it gives you the option to merge images when presented with a contrasted situation. I think if you’re not trying to capture a contrasty scene a one-shot image is going to be fine to process, but if there’s lots of contrast then you’re probably going to want to merge a bracketed image.

Examples

Below are a series of bracketed images with the final processed version.

Conclusion

Exposure bracketing is a helpful tool for photographers. It ensures you get the best exposure in challenging lighting conditions. Even with modern cameras, bracketing is useful when there's a big contrast between light and dark within your scene. By using this technique, you can create better exposures with more detail. It's easy to try out, and it can really enhance your photography skills!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about exposure bracketing. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Before you buy a camera bag, you need to answer the questions below. This will effectively teach you how to choose the best camera bag for you.

You’ll find a link to these products at the end of this blog. 

What is a camera bag for?

Firstly, we’ll tackle the obvious – what is the purpose of a camera bag? It’s to keep your kit safe as you go out and shoot, and to keep it dry (we’ll cover this in more detail later.)

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What type of camera bag do you need?

Everybody has different needs when it comes to camera bags, but it basically breaks down into two very simple things:

1.           Comfort – you want it to be as comfortable as possible

2.           Size – You want it to fit everything you need correctly

Firstly, figure out the kit you’ve got and then choose a size that is a little bit bigger than your kit size. For example, you’ll see product pages with descriptions such as “fits one camera body and two lenses”. If that is your kit, you want to get a bag that can carry more, so that it will be suitable as your kit grows.

It’s important to get this balance right, as you want a bag that has enough space to grow into, but not too much space so it’s too big to carry around. So, go for a bag that has a little bit more extra space than the kit you currently have.

What is your kit type?

Do you have a DLSR? Do you have a mirrorless camera?

Most people have the mirrorless system these days, but there is still an argument to be made for the DLSR as it’s cheaper and still a well-made option. If you’re shooting with a DSLR, you’re going to need a slightly bigger camera bag as the bodies and lenses for these cameras are larger than the mirrorless system.

Find out more on DSLRs and Mirrorless here.

Next, what is your sensor size?

Are you using a full frame kit? An APS-C or Micro 4:3 kit? A bigger sensor means a bigger camera body, bigger lenses and a heavier kit overall so this is important to consider when thinking about how much space you need. The size of your bag will also be dictated by the type of sensor that you go for.

If you’re not too sure what a full frame or aps-c or Micro 4:3 sensor is, check out our full tutorial here.

The essentials of a camera bag

Tripod holder

This is a part of a camera bag that is designed to hold a tripod. They come in different places on different bags and are essential if you need to take a tripod on your travels.

Compartments

You need spots to hold all the different tools you need as a photographer like air blowers, camera cloths, multi tools, a torch etc.

Something that is not essential, but really handy to have is a laptop or tablet compartment – this is only essential for those that travel around with these as part of their kit.

A Rain Cover

You may well think to yourself that these camera bags are waterproof, and they are to a certain extent – until you encounter heavy rain. Most good bags that you buy today, will come with their own rain cover but just double check that before you buy. Some have them built into the bag and some come separately. All you do, when it starts to rain, is put the cover over the top of your bag.

Types of camera bags

There are many different types of camera bags, and each one has its pros and cons, but here you are mainly thinking about the comfort of the bag and the ease of access as you’re out on a shoot.

The main types of bags are:

Over the shoulder camera bag: These go over your shoulder and hang around your hip.

Rucksack camera bag: This type goes over your shoulders and sits on your back. The rucksack bags tend to have another strap that goes around your waist and chest area for additional support and comfort.

Small bags: Usually fit one camera.

We’ll also have a look at front opening bags, back opening bags, side opening bags – all these things you must consider when you’re looking for a new camera bag!

The small camera bag

This one is a budget model, and it holds one camera and lens. It’s perfect if you’re just going out for the day with one camera.

The over the shoulder bag

The next style is the over-the-shoulder bag. I’ve got two options here, the Lowepro bag, which is currently full of my canon gear, the body, the lenses, a flash gun and accessories, and there’s plenty of space for it – it’s a big bag. It’s also very robust. These types of bags are easy access and hold lots of gear but are not that comfortable if you are walking around all day.

The other version of the over the shoulder bag that we’ll be looking at is a Billingham bag. This brand is known for being extremely good quality, well-made and they’re British made too. They will last forever but are quite expensive. This is a smaller bag, and I use it quite a lot. You can fit your camera in there with another lens and a bottle of water and comfortably go around London for the day shooting.

Rucksack Type

Rucksack camera bags are the most popular type of camera bag, and in my opinion, this is because they’re the most comfortable to use. They just pop onto your back and then you’re off. Let’s look at a few examples.

The Lowepro BP 350 AWII; This bag I’ve had a long time and it’s been all over the world with me. It’s a bit on the bigger side of camera bags (they do come even bigger!) and is probably as big as we need as we use an APS-C mirrorless system when we’re out filming.

In here, we’ve had 3 bodies, loads of lenses, filters, accessories and then in the front there’s a laptop and tablet compartment – it’s an overall neat package that you can pack a lot of gear into. This bag was purchased as it’s the right size to go on a plane as cabin luggage, so if you travel a lot with your camera, that is something to consider! This model also has an in-built rain cover that can be tucked away at the bottom. It also has a tripod holder at each side of the bag.

Next up is the Tamrac bag – it’s a very robust and big bag that fits loads of kit – even more so than the Lowepro. This camera bag comes with its rain cover as a separate. The way you store your tripod on this bag is a little different – you just wedge it into the slots – and it works quite well!

Going down in size now, we’ve got two bags from ThinkTankPhoto. These are really good quality bags and here we have the Mirrorless Mover and the Backlight Sprint. These bags are a little bit smaller, but they’re perfect for one/two bodies and two/three lenses. You may even be able to get more in the mirrorless mover as it’s a little bigger.

In terms of functional design, there are a couple of differences between these two bags that would affect your choice. The mirrorless mover is a front opening bag, and the Backlight sprint is a back opening camera bag.

The more safety conscious photographers may lean more towards a back opening bag as no one will be able to unzip it from behind while you’re out and about. Whereas a front opening back easier to access.

Both these rucksacks have a tripod holder which you can have on either the left or the right of the bag. 

Another feature of the mirrorless mover is that there’s a pocket for your laptop or tablet at the front.

The next one is the K&F Concept backpack – this is more of a budget option, but still well made. The difference between this backpack and the two others from thinktank is that there are more ways to access the contents. You’ve got an opening at the top, the two sides, the back and the front of this bag. This comes in handy for those that are travelling around with things other than cameras and they want to separate everything into different compartments.

Brand quality of camera bags

With camera bags, I’m of the opinion that paying a little bit more for better quality is best. This is because a camera bag will be you a long time, so you want the best quality within your budget.

To demonstrate this, I have an Amazon basics camera bag (£30) next to a ThinkTank Backlight bag (£126). On the surface, they look similar. The amazon basics bag is in no way bad, it does the job it was intended. However, when you start to look closer between the bags you can start to see the difference in quality in the builds of each bag. For example, the padding seems much more robust on the ThinkTank bag, and the zips are bigger and thicker. This bag will stand the test of time; the Amazon basics may not last as long. Quite simply, you get what you pay for when it comes to camera bags.

Marc’s picks for the best camera bag

Lowepro BP 350 AW2 camera bag

This is the one that I use the most. It goes everywhere with us when we are filming our photography courses. I can fit nearly all our equipment in this bag (we do also bring along the Tamrac for overflow!). This is mainly because kit sizes have shrunk over the years. If you look at this bag, you wouldn’t think that it’s been up and down mountains, in and out of planes, chucked in and out of the boot of car hundreds of times, you’d just think it were a few weeks old. This is the sign of a good bag. I also like the way that this goes on a plane as cabin luggage without anyone moaning at you!

Billingham camera Bag

This bag was given to me, but I’ve used it so much since I received it! It’s like my holiday camera bag or when I’m out with the family. I can have it over my shoulder easily and, as I’m not on a professional shoot, so I don’t need much kit, just a camera body, lens, a battery and whatever else that I need to put in there. I can also chuck my other stuff in there as I’m out and about. And again, I’ve used this bag loads and you’d think that this was brand new!

ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover camera bag

This bag was sent to us by ThinkTankPhoto but I can see this becoming a new favourite. It’s really compact, and you can get loads in it. I have been looking for a bag like that for long time.

Something you can see with both this one and the Lowepro one, is that they’re not too complex to use and don’t have too many pockets. This is also a plus for me!

Conclusion

Finding the right camera bag is all about understanding your specific needs and preferences. Answer the questions above and you will be well on your way to choosing the best camera bag for you.

Whether you’re looking for comfort, space, or the best protection for your gear, there’s a camera bag out there that fits perfectly with your style of shooting. Remember to consider the size of your kit, your shooting habits, and your travel needs. Whether you're a casual photographer or a seasoned pro, investing in a durable, well-designed camera bag will not only keep your gear safe but also make your shooting experience more enjoyable and efficient. So, take your time, weigh your options, and choose a bag that works for you – after all, it's something you'll be relying on for years to come.

Looking to buy any of these bags?

If you’re looking to buy any of these bags, we recommend using Wex Photo Video here.

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you enjoyed this blog about choosing the best camera bag for you. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

The Brief for The Hero Shot

Firstly, what is a ‘Hero shot’? A ‘hero shot’ is the stand-out image for your company or product. The intention for our hero image is for it to be the main image on our website banner and the background image for our stand at The Photography and Video Show – it’ll end up being printed 6ft tall and seen by ten’s of thousands. So in this image we want to encompass everything we do here at TSOP. The aim is to create something, timeless, classic and undeniably about photography. This image will also be the one we use for all our marketing material for the show!

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

The Equipment for The Hero Shot

For this shoot, we’ve set up a studio and are using flashheads with double diffused softboxes attached, and a textured backdrop. As a prop, we’ve sourced a vintage camera (£4 from eBay!)!

Want to know more about studio lighting? Learn more in our Studio Photography Course.

Here’s the full equipment list:

Fujifilm X-T50 and XF 50mm f1 Lens

We’re going to use the actual camera model that you could win in our giveaway at the Photography and Video Show (Details Below). Kindly provided by Fujifilm, the X-T50. This APS-C body currently retails for around £1,149 and it’s beautiful. It is a lovely little camera for beginners and photography enthusiasts alike. The one you could win will come with the XF16-50mm lens, but for this photo shoot, we will be using the XF 50mm f1 prime lens that Fujifilm has sent us to try out.

Find out how you could be in with a chance of winning this and more in our Photography and Video Show Giveaway – details below!

Flash head with double diffused softbox

There are two different types of softbox that we might use for this shoot, the first being a standard rectangular softbox that is double diffused on a studio flash head. We’ll also introduce a grid softbox later in the shoot as we experiment with lighting the shot to add more of a dramatic flair.

5 Pro Portrait Lighting Setups – On a Budget!

Reflectors

We’re going to be using a large simple white reflector to fill in the shadows of the face and may also use a silver or white reflector underneath Rosie to bounce light back into the face.

Hair light

We also opted to use 2 other light later on in the shoot. One as a hair light and one as back light.

Backdrop

As we’re going for a classic vintage look, we’re going to be using a brownish textured backdrop that works with the vibe that we’re going for. The one we’re using is from KateBackdrop.

Atmosphere in A Can

Atmosphere in a can is a quick and easy (and relatively cheap) way to add some smoke to your shots. The plan for this is to spray this behind Rosie to add more texture to the shot – we’ll also use a background light, so it shines through the smoke to enhance this effect.

Settings For The Hero Shot

As we teach in our Studio Lighting course, you’ll want to do a lighting test to get the correct exposures when you’re working in a studio. You can use a handheld light meter to get the correct settings. After doing some tests our settings are:

1/125th second

f/5.6

ISO 125

When you’re using studio lighting, you’ll also need to set your White Balance to Flash.

The initial image is not a bad start – it’s clear and well-lit. Now we’re going to see how we can experiment to make this better and more eye-catching!

Want to master the basics? Check out our Beginner’s Photography Course here.

Experimentation For The Hero Shot

For the experimentation part of the hero shot shoot we wanted to experiment with different accessories then we will consider changing the lights and costume.

Working with Models - 4 Killer Tips.

Next we add a hair light. This is going to highlight the left of the face. You need to make sure you use barn doors to stop the light from going where you don’t want it.

For the next experiment, we’re going change the reflector to black to block the reflection of light on the left of the body. This will give a more dramatic lighting effect.

We added a grid to a softbox to channel the light further. We then added a bounce reflector beneath the body fill in some shadow areas on the face. It’s not made a huge amount of difference, but it’s significant enough to tell.

Top Tip: When changing lighting accessories, make sure you do another exposure test.

The Hero Shot

Now to add some more texture to the shot. We add some smoke and add a light behind Rosie shine through the smoke. This adds texture to the background of the image. Beware if you’re shooting indoors as it gets super smoky, very quickly!  

Attempt 1:

Attempt 2:

After waiting for the studio to air out, we decided to try this again, but this time with even more smoke! What do you think? Which is your favourite?

The Final Shot:

Here’s the final edited image that we have chosen for our hero shot. You’ll be able to see it printed 6ft tall at our stand (F185) at The Photography and Video Show in March. And as the banner image on our website!

Win 3K Photography Gear

Want to be in with a chance of winning £3k of photography gear including the Fujifilm X-T50 that we used to get this shot? Visit us at The Photography and Video Show from the 8th to the 11th of March 2025 on stand F185 to enter!

Here’s the full list of what you can win:

Fujifilm X-T50 Camera Body

Fujifilm XF 16-50mm Lens

Lowepro Freeline BP 350 Backpack

Manfrotto BeFree Advanced AS Lever Aluminuim Tripod

LeeFilters LEE100 Deluxe Kit+

Kentfaith Camera Strap

Kentfaith Cleaning Kit

£100 Wex Photo Video Voucher

£100 BobBooks Voucher

That’s not all that we’ve got going on during the Photography and Video Show, we’ll also be putting on special talks from our photographers and have an EXCLUSIVE show offer for those who visit our stand – not to be missed!

Our Talks:

• “A Photographer’s Exploration of Purpose” Sujata Setia, Sat 8th March, 2.45PM, Beyond The Lens Stage.

• “Scroll Stopping Street Photography” Mr Whisper, Sun 9th March, 11.05AM, Beyond The Lens Stage

• “How To Process Spring Forest Photography” Jack Lodge, Sun 9th March, 1.00PM, Stand F185

• “Astrophotography For Beginners” Ben Bush, Tues 11th March, 1.45PM, Stand F185

• “The Beginner Photography Road Map - Your Path To Success” Marc Newton, 8th, 10th, 11th March 11am | Sun 9th March 3.30PM

Get 20% off entry tickets using code SOP25. Click here to get your tickets

We’ll see you at the show!

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I hope you liked finding out about the process of capturing our hero shot for The Photography and Video Show 2025. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Photography Skill One: Street Photography

The reason I’m giving you this idea is because it’s really accessible, and it will speed up your photography taking skills. It will speed up your vision because when you’re out on the street, you’ve got to see interesting things quite instantly. It will speed you up with camera settings and, if you see something good, you’ve got to be quick and be able to get your camera settings right instantly.

It will also help you learn very quickly from your own mistakes because that speed is hard to do for anyone, whether you’re a pro or an amateur. When you get things wrong, like pictures going blurry for instance, you can quickly analyse them and put them right on the spot. So, it’s a really good photography skill to improve your use of camera settings and finding interesting things quickly.

Here are my top tips for street photography:

Tip 1- Limit Yourself:

Limit yourself to one focal length, one battery, one card—just go out with that. If you’ve got a prime lens, I strongly recommend you use it for street photography. If not, keep your focal length to 35 or 50 mm. That limitation will give you an extra challenge to get things right quickly. If you don’t know what focal lengths or prime lenses are, check out our Beginner’s course!

Tip 2 – The Busier It Is, The More Invisible You Will Be:

Walking around on the street with a camera is not an easy thing. You feel like everyone’s looking at you. But, if you’re in a busy area, you just sink into the background. If you’re in an area that’s not so busy, you do stand out. So, find a busy area to start practicing your street photography.

Tip 3 – Don’t Walk the Length of a City:

Instead of walking miles trying to find a good picture, find interesting spaces and just wait for life to appear within it.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Photography Skill Two: Forest Photography

The reason I’m setting you this one is because it’s extremely difficult to see the forest through the trees. I personally find forest photography really hard. It’s also a great way to improve your compositional skills and the way you frame the world in a photograph.

If you’ve got something as chaotic as a forest and can compose that to make it look good in a square or rectangle, then you’re doing a good job. Forest photography is also excellent for practicing your use of natural light, which isn’t easy I can tell you! Thankfully, in most cases, forest photography is accessible. You just need to walk to a woodland area or drive to a forest.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Remove the White:

Focus in the woodland. Any white areas in the sky or above the trees needs to be cropped out.

Tip 2 - Cloudy Days Are Better:

For most photography, you want lovely sunrises and sunsets, but in a forest, that light can be too harsh on the leaves and trees. A cloudy day is a good as it provides a softer even light.

Tip 3 - Use the Rule of Odds:

Frame your composition using odd numbers—threes, fives, sevens. Odd numbers bring a sense of harmony to the chaotic forest. Even numbers like twos and fours can create a sense of order that doesn’t look right in a forest.

If you’re interested in mastering this genre of photography, we’ve got an in-depth pro course with over seven hours of forest photography content. Check out our Forest Photography Course here.

Photography Skill Three: Still Life Photography

If you can’t go outside for whatever reason, that shouldn’t stop you from taking photos. You can create still life images with whatever you have lying around - flowers, fruit, or even household items.

Still life photography is ideal for practicing camera settings in a controlled environment. It also helps you explore composition and lighting techniques at a slower pace.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Soften the Light:

Use a large window for natural light. If the light isn’t soft enough, use chiffon fabric, net curtains, or similar material to diffuse it for a softer effect.

Tip 2 - Choose an Appropriate Background:

The background should complement the subject without being too distracting. You can use paper, fabric, wallpaper, or even buy specific backgrounds for product or still life photography.

Tip 3 - Use a Reflector:

Reflectors bounce light back onto the subject, filling shadows and reducing contrast. You can use materials like polystyrene, white card, or silver foil.

Product Photography Made Easy!

Photography Skill Four: Headshot Photography

Rather than generalizing portraiture, for this photography skill I want you focus on headshots. They are intimate and require you to connect deeply with your subject, which can be intimidating for beginners and therefore will challenge your skills!

Engaging with people builds confidence and teaches you how to bring out someone’s natural expressions. Plus, everyone loves a good headshot for their social media or business profiles.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Make Eye Contact:

Get your subject to look directly into the lens. Once that’s mastered, experiment with looking away or other directions.

Tip 2 - Use a Reflector:

A reflector under the subject can fill shadows and create catchlights in the eyes, enhancing the overall image.

Tip 3 - Zoom In and Get Close:

Zoom in rather than physically moving closer to compress the background and achieve a shallower depth of field.

Want to learn how to take professional Headshots? Check out our Headshot Photography Course.

Photography Skill Five: Cities at Night

Night photography in cities is very challenging but very rewarding. With bright city lights against the dark sky, you must rely on manual settings and your understanding of exposure. If you want to test your skills in working in manual, then this is genre of photography to try.

Here are my top tips:

Tip 1 - Use a Sturdy Tripod:

Long exposures require stability. A strong, durable tripod is essential to avoid blurry images.

Tip 2 - Experiment with Light Trails:

Capture streaks of light from cars or buses to practice controlling shutter speeds. Here’s a tutorial about how to create Light Trail Photography!

Tip 3 - Don’t Rely on the Camera’s Meter or Histogram:

Night photography often tricks these tools. Instead, use test shots to adjust exposure and ensure highlights and shadows are balanced.

Learn how to take stunning night photography in our Photographing Cities at Night Course.

Conclusion

These five photography challenges will not only make your practice more structured but also help you develop key photography skills in observation, composition, lighting, and exposure. Remember, photography is about experimenting, making mistakes, and learning from them—so take on these challenges with an open mind!

Share Your Ideas and Results

Do you have any other photography ideas? Share them in the comments! These five ideas are accessible and challenging, but I’d love to hear what’s worked for you.

When you try these challenges, share your results on social media using the hashtag #TheSchoolOfPhotography, we’ll check it out and engage with your posts.

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I hope you liked this blog putting these two kit combinations to the test. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

We’ve put together the best product photography tips to help you take your own product photos at home or in your office. We will look at easy lighting techniques and use low-cost equipment. In time at all you’ll be taking great product photography using just a window, a cheap second-hand camera and a piece of polystyrene!

If you’re a small business looking to take pictures of your products, or you just want to try something new, this tutorial is for you!

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What is Product Photography?

Product photography is a form of business-related photography that has the goal of displaying the product in the best possible photographic representation. The purpose of Product Photography is to lead prospective customers from initial awareness of the product, all the way through to becoming a customer and making a purchase.

Typically, you’ll find two kinds of product photography, the first is the product on a white background. These are to show your product as it is – any details that your customers would need to know about your product, such as fastenings, colours and textures and labels.

The other kind is more lifestyle based and that’s what I’m going to show you how to do in this tutorial. For this kind of product photography, you’ll be shooting on a set designed for the product and it should link back to the product itself or work within your specific business visual branding. It’s this kind of product photography that you’d see in magazines, on buildings and buses as it’s a lot more eye-catching, and helps sell your product more. You don’t have to be intimidated by those big glossy ad campaigns, because you can achieve great product photography easily at home with a small budget! Just simply follow my product photography techniques…  

Theme and feeling for product photography

Product photography aims to sell to your customer, but what’s the best way to do this? You can put a simple shot of your product on a white background on your website to show what your product is, it’s certainly better than not having product photography at all but adding some ‘hero’ images alongside these shots to add interest will sell the idea of your product.

The first thing you need is a theme or feeling you want to achieve and consider if your overall brand needs to be incorporated into this.  Here are some things to consider when planning your product photography photoshoot:

Your Brand – if your brand is all about being handcrafted, you may want to convey this in the product photography for your website as choosing certain backgrounds will be able to portray this visually to people looking at the product pages on your website.

Your Product – Certain colours and textures may make your product stand out better, or your product may have additional accessories that need to be included. Would different types of lighting better represent your product?

What you want your customer to feel/think about the product – do you want your product photography to suggest ideas of cleanliness with a bright and airy setting or something fun and bold with bright colours and hard light?

Try not to go in blind, what mood would suit the things you want to photograph? Is it a dark moody scene of metallic products or a bright fresh theme for makeup?  Having a feeling you want to achieve is a crucial part of the process.

What you choose to capture for your product photography will also dictate the feeling of the shot. If it’s for your business or restaurant then clearly what you sell will be the focus but if doing it for yourself try to choose something that’s personal to you or something you have a passion for.

The product photography set up

First, we’ll begin with constructing the set for your product photography. For my product photography, I’ve used textured backdrops that are made specifically for shooting smaller products, but you can use anything. You don’t want a background that overpowers your product, but one that works harmoniously and compliments what you’re photographing so something that is a flat colour or simple texture is best.

You can position the product in different ways to best represent it – does the packaging open in a specific way? Can you show the product out of the packaging? Is the product a certain shape that looks interesting when positioned at an unusual angle?

Another way to level up your product photography is to incorporate interesting shadows – you can create these by holding up leaves, certain fabrics, or household items to the light. In addition to this, you can also add additional decoration to the scene to add further detail and help create the visual aesthetic you want to portray in your product photography – just be careful not to overcrowd the image. The focus is the product.

Another thing to consider is the levels and arrangement of the product – think of capturing product photography like creating a still-life scene. You can use things like plinths to add various levels to the image. This isn’t something you have to do in your product photography, but it is an aspect you can get creative with. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t place your product too close to the background of your set as this placement will dictate how shallow of a depth of field, you’ll be able to achieve and where the shadows from your product will fall.

Like all things, product photography goes through fads and phases. As tempting as it may be, try not to get swept away with capturing all your product photography in a style that’s likely to go out of fashion quickly as this can have a detrimental effect on your brand or product and make it look out of date in the future. You want to create product photography that’s going to have longevity on your website and in your advertising and first and foremost, suit the product you’re trying to sell.

Best lighting for product photography

All photographs need light and product photography is no different. The normal rule here is the more light the better. So, let’s talk about different types of light and how you can control it.

Hard light is created by a strong light source which comes straight from the source and hits your subject (i.e. the sun on a clear day). This creates contrast and shadows.

Soft light is created when light travels through something (i.e. sunlight travelling through clouds).

For the most cost-effective lighting for product photography, use a big window for your main light source. If you want the effect of hard light make sure you shoot on a day with bright sun light and little or no clouds in the sky.

If you want the look of soft light, you can simply put sheer fabric curtains or chiffon fabric onto the window which will diffuse the light, making it soft.

Then you need to use a reflector to fill in any shadows or dark areas. In my example, I simply use a piece of white polystyrene (a white piece of card will also work) and a silver reflector to bounce back the light and fill in the shadow areas.

More complex product photography would use additional strobes, flash or continuous lighting to keep the product lighting consistent – this is something to consider if you have a high amount of products that all need to be shot in the same way, with the same kind of lighting or if you don’t have a window available.

To learn more about lighting in photography, click here.

Equipment for product photography      

You don’t need masses of expensive camera equipment to get a decent shot – Knowledge is power! In my shot here is used the following:

• Second-hand DSLR camera and standard kit lens. Valued at £100.

• A big window for lighting.

• A piece of polystyrene for a reflector.

• A piece of card for reflective effects.

To learn more about photographic equipment, click here.

Best Beginners Photography Equipment 2021

Camera settings for product photography

You also don’t need to know the ins and outs of photography for this type of shot - just knowing a couple of things will do the job.

Set your camera to the following:

• Camera mode – Av or A (Shutter Speed Priority).

• Set the Aperture to its lowest number your camera has available. Usually around f4.

• Put your ISO on 100.

• Put your lenses focal length to 30-35mm, an ‘as your eye sees’ focal length. This can be different on some cameras with different sensor sizes and to find out the exact as your eye sees focal length on different camera click here.

• Make sure you have plenty of light.

• Put your camera on a tripod and use your 2-second timer. This will avoid any camera shake.

• Set the camera to its largest image quality or if you know how to use post-processing programs, set the camera to shoot in Raw.

To get more in-depth knowledge on photography click here.

Product photography of metallic objects

If you’re shooting a metallic, you’re going to inevitably going to have to overcome the challenge of reflections on your product. If you’re a small business, you don’t have to worry about ridding your product photography of this completely (your customer won’t notice it, trust me!), you can help negate the reflections simply.

For my example, I’ve used a white card and a black and white polystyrene board as reflectors, so rather than whatever’s beyond the set being reflected onto the product, it’s just the flat planes of colour. It’s much less distracting and looks a lot more professional. You may have to experiment with the angles of these reflectors to get the desired effect in your product photography.

Post-processing product photography

Lastly, you will need to do some post-processing on your product photography. This could be as simple as cropping and adding contrast using a phone or free PC apps. If you want a more professional look, you can take the pictures in Raw format and post-process them in a program like Lightroom or Photoshop.

To learn how to use Lightroom properly click here.

Some high-end campaigns will use programs like Photoshop to drastically improve their product photography to create a visual advertisement, by creating composites for interesting product positioning or using specialist brushes to add associated iconography – such as water splashes or smoke. You can get as complex as you like with this, but in my example, I’m keeping it simple.

To learn more about using Photoshop, click here.

Lightroom Presets Free Download

To learn more about post processing your photography, click here.

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I hope you liked this video, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram and Vero.

What is ‘Dance Photography’?

Dance photography is all about capturing the art of movement and all that comes with it. From cave paintings to the impressionist works by Edgar Degas, dance is something that has always fascinated artists. Thanks to technological advances, rather than capturing the beauty of movement with oils and pastels, dance began to be captured in the form of a photograph.

Early beginnings of dance photography (Late 19th Century – Early 20th Century)

As a style of image-making, dance photography emerged in the late 19th century when photography was becoming more accessible. Early pioneers like Eadweard Muybridge (often hailed as the father of animation!) used stop-motion techniques to study movement. Though his work mainly focused on scientific exploration, his images laid the groundwork for capturing the body in motion, a precursor to dance photography.

Pioneers of dance photography (1920s-1940s)

In the 1920s and 30s, photographers began to take an artistic approach to capturing dance, inspired by the growing modern dance movement. Arnold Genthe is one of the most notable figures from this era. He worked closely with dance icons like Isadora Duncan, focusing on capturing the flow and grace in the dynamic and emotive movement. 

Following Genthe, Barbara Morgan played a crucial role in shaping dance photography. Her images of modern dance pioneers such as Martha Graham were groundbreaking for their stark contrast, tight compositions and the ability to capture the raw emotion of dance.

Documentary and artistic expansion of dance photography(1950s-70s)

In the post-war period, photographers like George Platt Lynes and Martha Swope emerged. Lynes brought a surreal, almost cinematic quality to dance photography, capturing ballets in artistic poses that blended classical and modern styles. Meanwhile, Swope became known as the “photographer of Broadway,” capturing the energy and atmosphere of live dance and theatre performances.

The rise of contemporary dance photography (1980s-Present)

With the invention of faster cameras, high-resolution lenses, and improved lighting, capturing dance in motion became easier. Photographers such as Lois Greenfield, famous for her surreal, gravity-defying images of dancers’ frozen mid-leap emerged. Her work influenced a generation of dance photographers who sought to convey not just the movements but the emotions and stories within the dance.

Today, dance photography exists as both an art form and a commercial genre, used for art galleries, magazines, advertisements, and personal portfolios for dancers. Advances in digital photography and editing software have enabled photographers to capture increasingly intricate, artistic compositions that celebrate the artistry of dance.

The types of dance photography

Dance photography can be categorized into several types, and you need to adjust your approach for each. Here’s an overview of the main types of dance photography, of course, this isn’t an exhaustive breakdown – like with all kinds of photography, dance photography can morph into an amalgamation of genres, but these are the core ones!

Performance dance photography

Capturing the live dance performances on stage, typically during shows, competitions, or rehearsals. This type requires timing, low-light adaptability, and precision to capture dancers in action without disrupting the performance. The photos highlight key moments, emotions, and stage dynamics. This can be challenging at first as photographers must work with limited lighting, fast movements and sometimes restrictive angles.

For this type of dance photography, you don’t want to miss out on the important moments of a performance so making sure that your camera is on burst mode and shutter priority is important. You’ll want to use a fast shutter speed like 1/250th of a second or faster to make sure that you’re freezing the motion of the performance and avoiding motion blur. It’s also best to use a wide aperture for this, such as f/2.8. This will allow as much light into the lens as possible which will help keep your ISO 100 low. Stage performances can sometimes have low lighting conditions, and you may not be allowed to use a flashgun. You’ll need to factor this in when you’re setting up for the shoot!

Learn how to use set the correct camera settings in any lighting conditions here.

Studio dance photography

Studio dance photography involves working with dancers in a controlled studio setting where you can adjust the lighting, poses and backgrounds. Studio sessions allow for precision and creativity with posed or directed shots. You’ll be able to capture complex poses, movements, or artistic concepts in ideal lighting and have the luxury of having more than one go at trying to capture a specific movement – you can’t ask a dancer to repeat a movement in the middle of a performance, but you can in this environment.

For this kind of dance photography, a zoom or prime lens will work equally well as you have control over the light. In terms of settings, you’ll want a fast shutter speed set to freeze movement and a low ISO to avoid noise. If you have a lens with a wide aperture, then shooting in lower lighting conditions should be fine. If not, you will need to increase the light via the light source you are using, e.g studio flash lighting, or your stage lighting. Using manual settings is advised here.

Learn Studio Lighting here.

Environmental dance photography

Environmental dance photography involves shooting dancers on location outside of the traditional setting of a studio or stage. This kind of dance photography works well to create a dynamic contrast between the dancer’s form and the background. This style generally utilises natural lighting and is about pushing forward a relationship between the dancer and the space – juxtaposing them or harmonising them with their surroundings within the frame. Your settings and kit can vary depending on your location and shooting conditions but try starting off with standard zoom lens, use it's a widest aperture this is generally around as f/4, and a fast shutter speed like 1/250th or above second. Take test pictures and view them on the back of your screen to see if the movement is frozen. If it’s not, then increase your shutter speed to 1/500th, 1/1000th or above.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Things to consider when starting dance photography

Understanding dance forms and movements

When photographing dancers, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the lingo – particularly if you want a certain look on camera. Knowing the names of the specific poses or movements can really help communicate what you want from the dancer. The best way to do this is to research into the style of movement you’ll be photographing. For example, you’ll want to photograph aerialists differently to ballet dancers and they are likely to have different names for movements and overall focus.

Building rapport with the dancers

Chat with the dancers you’ll be photographing – they’re likely to be a wealth of information when you’re just starting out. They’ll have the info on the kinds of angles and movements that look best on camera and what movements within the dance is best to be shown to an audience.

When photographing in backstage documentary-type scenarios, building a good relationship with those that you’ll be photographing will also help to make them feel a bit more comfortable around you as you document all of the work they put into making a performance.

Post-processing dance photography

Like all photography, you’ll want to think about your post-processing in your workflow. You can edit your images in programs such as Lightroom and Photoshop. In a studio setting against a backdrop, you may have to use generative AI to fill in parts of the background or use the remove tool to remove objects or imperfections such as out-of-place hair and clothing labels.

Master editing in Lightroom here!

Developing a personal style

If you’re looking to do dance photography commercially, developing a personal style is what will encourage clients to hire you for photoshoots. It’s important to keep experimenting with lighting, locations and photographic techniques. This will help you develop your own artistic style.

Safety and comfort

Health and safety is something that you need to consider when doing dance photography, both your own and the dancers. If shooting in a studio environment, you’ll want to designate an area for dancers to warm up and cool down before their photoshoot and clear the studio area of any potential trip hazards. You’ll also want to be aware of the path of movement that the dancer will be taking – you don’t want to get in their way or collide with them whist they’re dancing!

Composition for dance photography

You’ll want to brush up on your compositional rules such as the rule of thirds, leading lines, where to place negative space etc. These will be incredibly useful techniques to create a narrative within the scene. As dance photography tends to be quite minimalist – the primary focus is on the movement captured, though this is the trend and not the rule. Composition and lighting are the main vehicles for telling a story and creating an atmosphere in dance photography.

You can find out more about the compositional rules of photography here.

Dance photography ideas

Now you’ve thought about all the elements you need to consider when starting, you probably want some inspiration to get you started! Here’s some dance photoshoot ideas to get creative with:

Chiaroscuro lighting

Chiaroscuro or low-key lighting adds drama and atmosphere to an image which is amplified when you are capturing an emotionally charged scene of a dancer. Experiment with only using one light source and think about what parts of the dancer’s body are important to highlight and what happens when you leave parts of the movement in shadow?

Add complimentary elements

Add lightweight flowy fabric like organza or tulle to give a sense of movement. This can be done by getting the dancer to hold the fabric as a prop in their hand or incorporate it as part of their costume or even as the background (if you have a couple of assistants to move the fabric in and out of shot!) You can also use things like powder paint or atmosphere in a can to add dynamism for these freeze frames.

5 Pro Portrait Lighting Setups – On a Budget!

Your setting

Whilst dance photography does tent to skew towards the minimalistic, you can experiment with setting too – does adding certain set pieces change the way the movement looks within a shot? You can get really creative with this as your set can help add more context and help tell a visual story alongside the movement.

Location

Experimenting with different locations is always a great way to get creative with your dance photography. Underwater, in the street or on a train – the possibilities are endless!

Post-production

Manipulating the image after you’ve captured it is also a great way to experiment with dance photography – using techniques like double exposure or layering fine art textures or brush overlays can add more of a story to your image.

Learn Photoshop properly here.

Work together on poses

This idea works well if you’re good at building a rapport with dancers. Work together to come up with some fun and interesting poses that go beyond the traditional poses. An arabesque or jete is a classic shot (and great to start with as a warmup!). Don’t forget dancers have trained to move and manipulate their bodies in all kinds of crazy ways, have a chat with them and see what weird and wonderful poses that they’re capable of!

Conclusion

Dance photography is a unique discipline that blends technical skill with artistic vision. Whether you’re capturing the raw energy of a live performance or the controlled precision of a studio session, every moment offers a new challenge and opportunity for creativity. By understanding the nuances of dance photography, and building strong connections with your dancers, you can develop your own style and produce images that not only capture movement but convey emotion and a story.

Remember, practice is key. Experiment with different techniques to refine your craft, and don’t be afraid to push the boundaries of traditional dance photography. With the right equipment, and a passion for storytelling, you’ll be on your way to creating stunning images that celebrate the beauty of dance.

Happy shooting!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our blog on dance photography, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

Plus, we will be putting our money where our mouth is by putting it all into practice in the beautiful city of London.

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What is ‘Architectural Photography’?

Architectural Photography simply means photography that focuses on buildings. It can include building exteriors and interiors, as well as other structures and serves as an accurate record of a building, both its design and contents.

Architectural photography emerged in the late 19th century alongside the development of more portable and affordable cameras and was used for documentary purposes to record historical buildings and archaeological sites.

Architects and builders also began to use this photography to promote their work and attract clients.

As time went on, the advancements of modern technology, such as colour film, faster lenses and flash all made it easier to capture architectural subjects in a variety of lighting conditions.

Learn to control exposure in a variety of lighting conditions here.

Theoretical movements and trends such as Brutalism and Modernity, which incorporate clean lines, functional design, and geometric forms in their design, have provided a rich subject matter for architecture photographers.

Famous Architectural Photographers

When learning about architectural photography it is good to study the masters. When doing so, look particularly at the way they frame and compose their buildings. This may provide inspiration for your next shoot!

Here's some iconic architectural photographers and their photography that we recommend looking at:

Frederick H Evans

Ezra Stoller

Julius Shulman

Mitsuru Sakurai

Best Camera Equipment for Architectural Photography

Wide Angle Lens - It’s a good idea to use what’s called an ultra-wide-angle lens. On a full-frame camera, this will be a focal length of 16-24mm, on a crop sensor camera it will be 11- 17mm and on a micro 4:3 camera it will be a focal length of 8-12mm.

To learn more about lenses and focal lengths click here.

Tripod - You will need a good sturdy tripod to take the weight of your camera. Avoid using cheap flimsy tripods as these could cause your camera to move in the wind or make your set-up top-heavy.

Digital SLR camera or Mirrorless camera with manual setting - As a beginner in photography, you need to learn properly from the start. You will need a camera that works fully manual. A good camera to use would be a DSLR or mirrorless camera.

To learn how to use your camera in fully manual mode click here.

Settings for Architectural Photography

As with most genres of photography there isn’t a go to setting as it will depend on the subject you photograph and the conditions you photograph in. However, there are some generalisations that will get you started:

ISO 100 to 400 - For architectural photography, it’s best to keep your ISO as low as possible – that way you’ll get the most crisp and clean details in your images.

f/11 to f/16 - A smaller aperture will give you a longer depth of field. This will keep everything sharp from the foreground to the background and help you capture the finer details in the architecture

Shutter speed varied – Due to having a small aperture and low ISO you may need to use quite long exposures. Because of this it’s best practice to bring along a sturdy tripod so you don’t end up with camera shake. If nothing is moving in the scene (being buildings, they generally don’t) then you can use longer shutter speeds to balance out the exposure.

Learn about apertures, shutter speeds and ISO here.

Choosing Locations for Architectural Photography

Research your city

When choosing what to photograph for your own architectural photography, do your research and get to know a bit more about the building you’re photographing. When is it at it’s busiest? What does it look like in different weather and lighting conditions? Are there any specific stand-out design elements built into the architecture? What is the building used for? Etc.

In our video example above, I am photographing architecture in the beautiful city of London. You should also be able to find good architecture in any city across the world. Examples of buildings or structures that grab attention are government buildings, business districts, museums, historic landmarks and those tourist hotspots of famous places.

Interiors

Capturing the interior of a building is also architectural photography and can create really effective imagery. Remember, architects don’t just design the outsides of their buildings! Capturing the interior is a great way of capturing the story of the building – how is it used and how do people move around it? Are there striking design elements within the design of the floors, ceilings, pillars etc? See if there are specific design choices that are used to direct the flow of traffic within thew building and notice the way that an interior is lit or structured.

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of members work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Composition in Architecture Photography

The most recognizable aspect of architectural photography is the way in which photographers can almost anthropomorphise buildings within their images. Use framing and composition techniques to make a building look inviting, imposing or sleek.

One of the fundamentals of good architecture photography is good composition. Get this right and the rest should slot into place.

Learn about composition in photography here.

For example, shooting architecture from the front as opposed to the side will give a very different feeling to an image – take this into consideration when setting up the composition of your shot. You can employ compositional rules to add an extra layer to the image and force the viewer’s eye around the image in the way you want.

Leading Lines: Lines in a photo that draw the viewer’s eye toward a particular area, usually leading to the main subject or vanishing point. Leading lines can emphasize the height, symmetry, or depth of a building. In architecture, they often come from features like hallways, columns, railings, or even pathways outside a building.

Leading Lines Photography - Increase your Creative Skills - Instantly!

Symmetry and Bisecting Lines are lines that split the frame or image into two distinct sections, often right down the middle, horizontally or vertically. Bisecting lines highlight symmetry and contrast in architecture, usually creating balance. A bisecting line might run down the centre in a shot with a building’s facade, showcasing a symmetrical structure or contrasting textures on each side.

Symmetry in Photography – Killer Tips to Improve Composition

1-Point Perspective: A technique that emphasises a single vanishing point on the horizon line, creating a sense of depth and dimension and is often used to create strong, symmetrical compositions.

2-Point Perspective: A perspective technique where lines converge toward two different vanishing points, typically near the edges of the frame. This perspective is useful for corner shots of buildings or structures at an angle. It’s effective when showing two facades of a building or for capturing depth and dimensionality in complex architectural forms.

You can find out more about compositional rules in our beginner’s course here.

Vantage Points

Sometimes street level isn’t always the best vantage point for the shot that will capture the building at its best – you can try shooting from multi-story car parks, rooftops, hilltops and out of the windows of tall buildings. Providing there aren’t any legal restrictions within the area that you’re shooting, you can even use a drone to get the shot you want!

Dealing With Distortion

To avoid distortion in your architectural photography, you first want to make sure your camera is level and perpendicular to the building.

Due to the nature of a wide-angle lens, you may end up with distortion in your image. You can tell this is happening when the lines of your buildings aren’t straight and have a slight curve to them.

There are a couple of ways you can remedy this: realigning in Photoshop or using a tilt-shift lens. Solving the distortion problem is the best part about using a tilt-shift lens in your architectural photography. Tilt-shift lenses work by tilting the lens relative to the camera body, which lets you control the plane of focus and ultimately stops buildings from looking like they’re leaning backwards!

If you don’t want to spend money on a tilt-shift just yet, depending on your composition, you may be able to adjust some of the distortion using the Lens Corrections features in Lightroom and Photoshop.

To learn how to use Lightroom properly, click here.

Post-processing

Lastly, you will need to do some post-processing on your images. This could be as simple as cropping and adding contrast using a phone or free PC apps. Or, if you want a more professional look, you will need to take the pictures in RAW format and use post-processing programs like Lightroom or Photoshop.

It might be more of an expense using paid software to edit your photography but believe me it will pay dividends in the end!

To learn how to use Photoshop properly, click here.

HDR

High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography is a technique that allows you to capture a wide range of tone, colour and detail in your photos and is commonly used in architectural photography. HDR images are visually striking and bring out the full beauty of a scene. And in a contrasty scene it will help get correct exposures every time.

HDR in Lightroom – Explained; Camera Settings to Edit!

Examples of Architecture Photography

Conclusion

Architectural photography is a great way to take notice of the fantastic buildings around you and how we interact with them. We hope this has inspired you to go out to your local urban areas and practice your photography by capturing interesting architectural designs and details.
Happy Shooting!

Check out these tutorials below

I hope you liked our complete guide to architectural photography, if you did, please leave us a comment, and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.

Let’s get straight into the test and see which one comes out on top!

NB: Below there are some affiliate links and TSOP will receive a small percentage of some purchases made.

The camera

For this test, we'll be using the Canon R5 as the camera body. It's a solid choice since it's widely used by professional photographers. Other compatible camera bodies for these lenses include the Canon R8, R3, R6, and R1. You can read all about this body and the entire Canon R Range here.

The Canon lenses

RF 50mm f1.2 – The fasted lens that excels in sharpness and low-light conditions. This is a prime lens (fixed focal length) and the shallow depth of field and beautiful, creamy bokeh you achieve with this lens can be a game changer. This makes it a prime choice for portrait photographers who want to isolate their subject from the background, particularly in low-light environments. Its wide f/1.2 aperture also allows you to shoot at faster shutter speeds, even in dimly lit settings.

This 50mm lens retails at £2500/$2099

The Canon RF 50mm f1.8 (nifty fifty) vs RF 50mm f1.2 – Review and comparison

RF 85mm f2 – Technically this is not one of Canon’s pro ‘L’ series lenses and it’s titled as a macro lens, but believe me when I say it will work great for portraits too. This is thanks to the 85mm focal length and wide aperture combined. The Canon RF 85mm f/2 not only performs brilliantly for portraits, but its macro capability allows for exceptional close-up photography too, offering a unique flexibility in tight spaces. This is also a prime lens and the 85mm focal length provides flattering compression, ideal for headshots, while still allowing you to work within the confines of small studio spaces. This is also the cheapest option out of the three lenses in this test at £619/$549.99 meaning it’s a great choice for those on a budget.

Learn about focal lengths and compression in photography here.

RF 70-200mm f2.8 – The only telephoto lens tested today is the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8. This lens is also great for low-light performance and produces fantastic bokeh making it perfect for both candid and posed portraiture. This lens is more suited to outdoor photography and isn’t known as a specific portrait lens but will be great in an outdoor portrait shoot. The image stabilization helps keep your pictures sharp, even when shooting handheld at longer focal lengths. It retails for around £2.2K/$1499

Get current prices and buy these lenses here

The test

The point of this test is to push these three lenses to their best potential in a portrait scenario—we want to see which one works best for the job! We’re going to compare the depth of field, compression, and how each lens works for headshots and full-body portraiture. And we’re going to have a thorough play with these lenses to see just what they are capable of!

We’re shooting in three different locations in this test, all with their own environmental challenges. The first place that we’ll be putting these lenses to test is against a long fence, the second is a wide-open field and the third is in dense woodland. Our model, Rosie, is dressed in a colour palette that matches each of these environments respectively – though she will have the odd accessory change to better suit each specific shooting location!

The main challenge for all three locations is going to be the weather. It’s cloudy and grey and we are shooting during the back end of winter. There are not a lot of colours but the cloudy conditions do mean that the light is already diffused. To make sure that there’s enough light in the face, we’ll be using a reflector when needed to bounce some of the diffused light back into the model’s face.

Learn about studio lighting here.

Portrait Photography Tips – Settings, Composition, Colour & Lighting

Get access to ALL our online courses - 1000’s of videos, worksheets, critiques of students work, personalised support and much more with our monthly membership.

Location 1

The first location, against a long wooden fence, offered a neutral backdrop with natural textures, perfect for showcasing how each lens handles depth of field and background blur. Our model is dressed in a beige and green colour palette as to harmonise with the natural colours of the environment.

Our settings will change during each situation, and I will note them with each picture below. To learn how to control exposure in photography properly, click here.

The results from location 1

Canon RF 50mm f/1.2 lens

Canon RF 85mm f/2 lens

Canon RF 70-200mm lens

As this lens is a zoom lens, we’re going to push it to the full 200mm focal length.

The results from location 2

The second location is in a wide-open field – a public footpath that goes through a farmer’s field. There’s not really a lot of visual interest with this location, which is going to be a challenge!

50mm

85mm

70-200mm

The results from location 3

For this location in woodland and we’ve changed the accessories the model is wearing to harmonise with the scene better.

50mm

85mm 

70-200mm

Conclusion

Clearly, they are all great lenses for portrait photography and any of them will help you gain great portraiture. If you are on a budget then the Canon 85mm f/2 is a great choice for the money, and with this lens, you can try your hand at macro photography too! If you are interested in macro, then check out our full macro course here.

Canon’s 50mm f/1.2 is probably one of the best headshot lenses you will use. It produces fantastic results but remember it comes at a cost of £2500!! For a cheaper option at this focal length, you could use the nifty fifty instead. Check out our review of the nifty fifty here. 

For me, the best Canon portrait lens in these scenarios was the Canon RF 70-200mm f2.8. I know for studio portraiture it wouldn’t necessarily be the best portrait lenses but for outdoor portraiture, it was simply fantastic to use and produced the best results in my opinion. But again, it has a £2300 price tag so make sure you are going to get your money’s worth from it!

We’d love to hear from you! After reading through our tests of the Canon lenses, which one do you think comes out on top for portrait photography? Do you have experience with these lenses in different environments or lighting conditions? Share your thoughts, questions, or any tips you might have in the comments below—we’re always excited to hear what you think!

Like this? - Check out more free tutorials below

I hope you liked this blog comparing the Canon RF portrait lenses. If you did, please leave us a comment and support us by sharing it with your friends and subscribe to our newsletter at the bottom of this page for more.

We also have an excellent learning community on social media so please join us there as well.

Thanks for watching and remember – Learn more at The School of Photography.

About the author

Hi, I’m Marc Newton and I’m a photographer, educational speaker, author, teacher of photography and the founder of The School of Photography. Follow my personal work on Facebook, Instagram.